28893727
Edward’s broken ankle was mended during a successful surgery at the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania. Since he stayed at HUP for two nights, I had the pleasure of dining alone at the nearby White Dog Café.
I’ve been a fan of White Dog for many years. Judy Wicks, its founder, turned the small muffin shop in a lovely Victorian brownstone into a nationally celebrated American restaurant featuring organic produce from local farms, sustainable seafood and organic beef.
When you dine at the White Dog bar, you truly are not alone. It is usually filled with Penn students and men and women of a certain age. It is a crowd that enjoys friendly banter with Eve and Natasha, two of the best bartenders in town.
The relief I felt when Edward came to (he was knocked out; I wanted him to have a spinal tap) became stronger as I escaped from the brutally cold, dark night into the warmth of White Dog.
Eve made me a jumbo, icy-cold martini ($10) and I perused the bar/grille menu. There is something for everyone, appetites big and small.
Philadelphia restauranteur Marty Grims purchased White Dog in March. Eric Yost is the executive chef and the delightful Andrew Welch is the manager.
I began dinner with spinach salad ($13) which consisted of a large bowl of fresh baby spinach topped with a warm mélange of mixed mushrooms. I always enjoy the contrast of cool greens with warm ingredients ever since Edward first made me his salad concoction of lettuce and stir-fried broccoli. The mushrooms were immaculately fresh and free of grit. Dressed in a light vinaigrette, all it required was a small dose of salt and pepper.
A trio of Metropolitan crusty French rolls arrived with softened butter.
I have not ordered steak tartare since last summer, so I wanted to try Yost’s version ($14). A cool mound of freshly chopped-by-hand organic beef was placed in the center of the plate. It was perfectly seasoned with a hint of mustard. A hard-boiled quail egg sat atop the tartare. Yost included a bit of microgreens with the dish. Tartare, whether made with beef or tuna, is satisfying, but a risotto dish caught my eye.
Artichoke risotto ($7) is considered a side dish, but I received a good-size, deep bowl of creamy, yet toothsome Arborio rice with chunks of steamed artichokes. I liked the flavor combinations of the briny chokes and slightly salty risotto mixed with a bit of Parmesan. Risotto is a tough dish to prepare correctly. Yost’s was tasty and enjoyable.
I sipped a glass of Parducci Sauvignon Blanc ($9) with dinner. It had a light, grassy flavor that enhanced the risotto.
On my next visit, I wanted a burger. I always enjoyed the burgers at White Dog. Since I ate a filling lunch, I sipped a martini and ordered the fried calamari ($9).
Yost does not use whole baby squid. I wish he would. I think the dish would have been more successful. Still, he used small rounds of calamari, coated in seasoned crumbs and fried to a blond-brown. He placed the crustaceans on two pools of sauce I found odd. Dipping sauces usually arrive on the side. One was a fresh marinara and the other was akin to a garlicky aioli.
He uses a bacon aioli as a spread for the burgers. Anyone who has been to the Midwest knows restaurants and cafes spread mayonnaise on burgers. I could not detect any bacon in the aioli. I found the spread bland.
My burger ($13) arrived medium-rare on a soft bun with a slice of orange cheddar that was not melted. Some green-leaf lettuce and a slice of under-ripe tomato were on the cheese. The fries, though fresh, could have been crispier.
Service was first-rate both evenings. White Dog’s staff is professional and courteous. They serve and clear with ease and pace the meal.
If you dine at the bar, bring along a book for company or chat with fellow diners. Either way it will be a fine evening.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to the White Dog Café.
White Dog Café
3420 Sansom St.
215-386-9224
www.whitedog.com
28893722
