Vintage

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Ah, Paris. On my first walk through the streets and boulevards of the City of Light many years ago, I noticed the proliferation of wine bars and café s. It took America a number of years to catch up, but now we have European-style coffeehouses throughout the country.

Vintage, the new wine bar that opened on South 13th Street a few months ago, is nestled next door to El Vez, the delightful Mexican restaurant owned by Stephen Starr. Vintage is a fine place to meet friends for a glass of wine, a plate of fruit and cheese, a salad or a sandwich.

The restaurant is a long, narrow spot with the original exposed brick wall behind the bar and a light fixture made from empty wine bottles. One wall is hidden with wooden box covers stamped with the names of fine European vintages.

Edward and I found a small table by the window so we could get a good view of the goings-on. We perused the "tres" French menu, which is small, but has something for everyone. Our server brought over a list of the specials, which also was written on a blackboard.

I was shocked to see the hefty price for a mid-size martini served in a neighborhood café, but the wine-by-the-glass costs are more reasonable, as many choices range from $6 to $7.

We began dinner with calamari ($9) and a special summer salad ($11). The generous portion of the former was immaculately fresh. We particularly liked the aioli dipping sauce — a refreshing change from the run-of-the-mill marinara most serve. I asked for some bread and a small baguette arrived with sweet, creamy butter.

The salad was prepared with fresh grilled vegetables, including asparagus, meaty portobellos, endive, onions and greens, tossed in a light balsamic vinaigrette. I usually don’t care for this type of dressing in restaurants because sometimes it tastes cheap. Not at Vintage — it was well done. Although I thought the price a little high, the salad was delicious and large enough to share.

At this point, the restaurant began to fill up. Nearly every seat was taken with patrons sipping wine and munching on fruit and cheese at high-top tables.

We asked one of the several runners to send over our server so we could sample a glass from what might be the best-planned, moderately priced wine list in the city. Edward selected a Vinho Verde ($6). This green, slightly effervescent wine from Portugal marries well with appetizers and fish — and is perfect for summer picnics.

Thus, Edward ordered the fish of the day, waloo ($17), which is faintly sweet, firm and white-fleshed. When properly cooked, it’s meaty and juicy, and this version was nicely done: grilled and served with a dollop of fresh spinach and rice. We both liked it, but thought the portion too small for the price.

I sampled one of the two Malbacs ($7) and it was rich and fruity. This Argentinean wine has been popular in Philly for the past few years and went great with my burger ($11).

I ordered the burger rare, which, according to our server, is usually how the chef grills it. Although the outside could have been a bit more seared, it was rare and juicy inside, and was topped with melted cheddar and smoky bacon. The pile of french fries was perfectly cooked, hot and crisp. Their dipping sauce was OK, but needed a bit of tweaking.

Service was occasionally uneven, but the place was very busy by the time we left. I suspect the kinks will be worked out and people will find it a fun spot for a glass of vino and people-watching — just like in Paris.

Two tips of the toque to Vintage.

Vintage
129 S. 13th St.
215-922-3095
Credit cards accepted