Twists on tradition

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Rosh Hashana begins sundown tomorrow. Our dinner will have a certain sadness this New Year because it will be the first without my mother, who died in July.

Although Mom did not teach me how to cook, I prepare many of the dishes she made while I was growing up. I put my own twist on them and use many of her silver and crystal serving pieces.

Our dinner has settled in nicely through the years. The Jewish New Year calls for traditional foods — it’s not a time to mess with tradition.

Challah, the braided egg bread, is baked in round loaves to signify the creation of the world. Dishes made with honey are called for because diners will wish everyone a sweet new year.

We always have chopped chicken liver (Jewish pâté), gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, roast turkey or capon, carrots, a green vegetable and fresh fruit for dessert. Sliced apples dipped in honey is a Rosh Hashana tradition. If cake is in order, I buy a Jewish apple cake.

Sometimes I prepare a big pot of Sweet-and-Sour Meatballs because they are very good for a Rosh Hashana lunch. My grandmother always made them, serving them with bits of chicken liver as a first course.

All of these recipes can be easily doubled.

Chopped Liver

Ingredients:
2 pounds of chicken liver, rinsed in cold water
4 heaping tablespoons of chicken or duck fat or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 hardboiled eggs, quartered
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 shots of Cognac or brandy, optional
Mayonnaise, as needed

Directions:

Place the liver in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 40 minutes, or until a little pink inside.

While the liver cooks, heat the fat or oil over medium-high in a large skillet. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 10 minutes.

Rinse the liver in a colander. Drain well, then cool. Place half in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the onion and one egg. Pulse on and off until there is a slightly rough texture. Remove to a bowl and repeat with the remaining liver and egg.

Place the liver mixture in a plastic container. Add the salt, pepper and, if desired, Cognac or brandy. Blend well. If the livers appears dry, add about a tablespoon of mayonnaise. Cover and chill.

Serves four to six.

Sweet-and-Sour Meatballs

Ingredients:
2 pounds of ground beef
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup of matzo meal
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 28-ounce cans of crushed tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, with juice
1 to 2 15-ounce cans of whole cranberries
4 to 6 large lemons

Directions:

Place the beef in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt and pepper. Blend well.

Pour the tomatoes and a can of cranberries in a 4-quart pot. Bring to a boil, stirring from time to time to blend well, then lower to a simmer.

Wet your hands and roll the beef into 1-inch balls. Add to the pot and stir. Add the juice of four lemons and blend well. Taste and correct for a balance of sweet and sour. Add more cranberries and lemon juice, if desired.

Place the lid askew and simmer for about two hours. Taste the sauce once more for balance, adjust if needed and serve.

Serves six.

Carrots with Honey

Ingredients:
1 pound of fresh baby carrots, sliced into coins
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons of honey
1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger
Fresh parsley leaves, chopped

Directions:

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium. Add the carrots and sauté for about five minutes. Add the honey and ginger. Cover the pot and cook for about 15 minutes. Stir the carrots from time to time.

Garnish with the parsley.

Serves four to six.