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Pubs have come a long way since I first fell in love with them in London, where Edward and I would sip a pint of Guinness and enjoy a ploughman’s lunch. Brew pubs are eateries with brew masters, many on the premises, that make all sorts of beer, ale, lager and the like specially for the restaurant. Throughout America, they have been popping up like tulips in spring. The food had always been secondary to a glass of pilsner — until recently.
The upscale brew pub is a refreshingly new idea and it was evident as soon as Triumph Brewing Co. opened its doors in Old City three weeks ago, where Jay Mission is turning out eight varieties of brews on the second floor.
Mom, Edward and I were shown to a roomy booth in the front room. Triumph boasts a number of dining areas with exposed brick walls, a long bar and several private spaces where patrons can take shelter from the hustle and bustle. The lighting is modern and soft and the noise level was fine, especially for such a busy place.
One of the pluses is each diner receives a long rectangular plate and a pair of wooden tongs so sharing is a snap. (I wish more restaurants would offer this.) Linen napkins and weighty flatware were tucked into these side dishes.
Bombay Sapphire martinis ($10.75) were jumbo and perfectly mixed.
The menu is available at lunch and dinner, which is a fine idea, as people can order a snack, a sandwich or a complete meal. Our server explained the options and answered questions. A number of dishes looked intriguing.
Mom began with a hefty bowl of roasted garlic bisque blended with Gruyere and topped with crunchy homemade herb croutons ($5). The stock was obviously homemade and nicely seasoned. The roasted garlic was sweet and mixed with the right touch of cream.
When tomatoes are out of season, I always substitute roasted peppers in appetizers and salads, and so do the Triumph chefs. My roasted pepper and mozzarella antipasto with marinated artichokes and caponata ($8) was not a bit overdressed and consisted of three large, roasted red pepper halves sprinkled with tiny pearls of creamy mozzarella and seasoned baby artichokes. The eggplants were not a bit bitter and the cool caponata was minced. I liked the presentation of the artichokes draped over the peppers.
Edward ordered Caesar salad ($7), which arrived on a long rectangular dish, making tossing a bit messy. We both thought the serving was on the small side, but it was tasty and included shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano, crisp hearts of romaine, herbed croutons, baby mint — which provided a heady aroma and flavor — and white anchovies.
Mom ordered crab fritters ($9), I decided on pan-roasted poussin ($14) and Edward selected tournedos ($15). We hit a snag when we finished our martinis, just before the appetizers arrived, because no one came by to ask if we wanted beer.
As we ate the first course, one of the managers went table to table to ensure everyone was enjoying dinner. This is another nice practice. I went over and asked the manager to explain the different beers on tap. Unfortunately, we were almost finished with our entrées, when we received a tasting of several varieties. Three tips of the toque to this practice – taste before selection. When we received our check, there was no charge for the sampling.
Mom received three mounds of lump crab, each the size of a 50-cent piece, but they were cool. Sitting on a bed of finely diced red roasted beets blended with fresh thyme, they tasted fine but would have been better if hot.
Tournedos of beef are tender morsels that turn up in all sorts of recipes, especially in France. Edward ordered his rare and it arrived medium-well. Our server apologized and, about 10 minutes later, he received a freshly prepared dinner. The beef was topped with a port-wine sauce reduction with a bit of blue cheese and included heavenly broccoli rabe laced with garlic.
I adored my poussin, which is a small chicken the French also enjoy. It was roasted with herbs and remained tender and juicy. The chef took the breast and sliced it, removed the legs and sliced the thigh meat. My dinner sat on a bed of roasted carrots, onions, parsnips and artichokes that were mixed with a bit of goat cheese, crispy proscuitto and natural pan juices. I must try this recipe at home.
We shared a tart tatin ($6), which is a upside-down apple tart invented in France. Although not warm, it was nicely presented. The apples were sweet and it was obviously homemade.
When we received our bill, the manager had removed Mom’s crab fritters because they were cold — this is the hospitality industry at its best.
When I take out-of-town family and friends around town this summer, I think I will return for lunch and try a burger and homemade fries.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Triumph Brewing Co.
Triumph Brewing Co.
117 Chestnut St.
215-625-0855
Credit cards accepted
Open seven days
