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I enjoy dining alone. From time to time, I head over to a restaurant for a full meal or a caf� for a sandwich and iced tea. Sometimes I bring along a good book, but more often than not I just like to slide onto a tall bar stool or sit at an outdoor table.
On a beautifully warm September evening, I decided to dine solo at Tria, the second branch of which opened in July at 1137 Spruce St. The first location on South 18th Street is just steps from Rittenhouse Square.
The menu at Tria represents the growing trend of dinners put together by combining several small- to medium-size courses with a glass of wine or beer. The wine and beer lists are extraordinary. I had so much fun ordering a succession of courses and sampling two wines, which are five-ounce pours served in 16-ounce crystal glasses — easy for sniffing and swirling.
The d�cor is low-key. The front room has a long handsome wood bar and high-top tables. There’s a dining room and outdoor seating as well. The music was playing softly, but I could have done without the noise of busy Spruce and the SEPTA bus that roars down 11th Street every eight minutes.
I have not met a staff this congenial and knowledgeable in some time and an abundance of personnel — a host and hostess and plenty of waitstaff — meant I never had to wait more than a few minutes between courses.
Tria reminds me of the marvelous wine bars dotting European cities. There are 27 wines available by the bottle or glass here.
I have never been a fan of chardonnay, so the glass of 2006 organic Domaine de la Potine Sauvignon Blanc ($8) hit the mark with its refreshing grapefruit flavor.
The heirloom tomato "snack" ($7.50) was not a tiny portion. It consisted of three thick slices of juicy red and yellow tomatoes topped with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano and drizzled with the right touch of aged balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. The vinegar brought out the sweetness in these end-of-season beauties. The dish came with a slice of toasted bread covered with pesto. I asked a bartender for some bread to mop-up the dressing and she obliged with a smile and brought me about six slices of crusty French bread.
Another snack was mission figs with Proscuitto di Parma ($5.50). My plate contained several razor-thin slices of the finest proscuitto. Figs are in season and I always welcome the Mission variety, especially when warmed and stuffed with imported Gorgonzola from Lombardy.
I was intrigued with another snack — the "fennel salami" — which a bartender told me is indeed made with fennel. As I waited for my next course, I ordered a glass of 2005 Lancatay Malbec ($8.50), one of my favorite wines from Argentina. It had a fruity yet oaky flavor that I savored.
The fennel salami ($5.50) made use of Lancaster County apples that were cut into a thick julienne and tossed with a like-prepared fennel. There were at least six or eight thin slices of salami on the plate.
From the salads I selected a mix of some of my favorite ingredients. The dish ($8) consisted of grilled asparagus, sliced fresh artichokes, jumbo white beans and a grape tomato-onion relish that enhanced the vinaigrette. A sprinkling of pine nuts made this vegetarian dish shine. I was surprised to discover the asparagus were sliced. I thought this dish would be done the French way of placing a single ingredient next to another, all lined up on the plate. Still, it was a light and refreshing course. I toted half of it home for lunch.
Italy has influenced American restaurants for the last century, but it has only been within the last 10 years or so "dolci" have made their way across the ocean. I was not surprised to see a panna cotta on the sweets list. Italian for "cooked cream," it is a custard-like confection made without eggs. My chocolate version with orange curd and candied orange peel ($6.50) was culinary heaven. The custard was made with semi-sweet chocolate and served with homemade orange curd and candied orange peel. I saved half of it for later as a special treat.
Tria should come into each Philly neighborhood. Service was excellent (the bartender changed my flatware for each course). Prices are moderate plus the ingredients shined with in-season freshness.
As I left it, one of the hosts asked, "Can I hail you a taxi?"
I replied, "It is such a beautiful evening, I think I’ll walk a bit."
Three tips of the toque to Tria.
Tria
1137 Spruce St.
215-629-9200
Credit cards accepted
