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A number of years ago, on a brilliantly sunny autumn morning, I took a ride to Kennett Square, the “mushroom capital of the world.” I witnessed firsthand how a variety of mushrooms grow and thrive in soil-rich beds in the dark and soon turn up in area supermarkets and farmers markets.
We are fortunate to have a tasty array of them available year-round. White button, cremini, portobello, shiitake, pricey chanterelles, fresh and dry porcini and slender enoki can be found in my shopping basket.
Remember the scene in “Julie & Julia” when Julie Powell is sautéing mushrooms in a skillet and quotes Julia Child: “Do not crowd the mushrooms or they won’t brown properly.” She’s right. Sauté a handful of sliced mushrooms at a time and don’t be in a hurry. Keep the heat nice and gentle.
Although raw mushrooms turn up in salads from time to time, I prefer to add them to a dish for added texture and headiness. All kinds of herbs love to keep company with mushrooms as they impart a marvelous flavor and aroma.
When buying mushrooms, reject any which are bruised or have brown spots. A bit of dirt is fine as it can be wiped away with a wet paper towel. Store mushrooms in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator.
A Simple Sauté of Mushrooms
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon of Canola oil
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
1 pound of mushrooms of choice, wiped clean and sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup of port or dry red wine
Handful of fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped
Directions:
Heat the oil over medium in a large skillet. Add the butter. Once the butter is melted, add the mushrooms, a small handful at a time and sauté them just until they give up their liquid, for about five minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.
Once all of the mushrooms have been sautéed, remove them to a warm platter, add the port or red wine, raise the heat and reduce slightly. This should take a minute or so.
Return the mushrooms to the skillet and heat through. Top with the parsley.
Serves four.
Note from Phyllis: This is a delicious appetizer often offered in French restaurants. Sometimes the mushrooms are served in puff pastry shells, which are available in the supermarket.
Couscous with Mushrooms and Vegetables
Ingredients:
1 package of couscous, cooked according to package directions
4 tablespoons of olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 pound of mushrooms of choice, wiped clean and sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Sprinkling of cumin
Directions:
Keep the couscous warm on the stove while preparing the vegetables.
Heat the olive oil over medium-high. Add the onions and carrots and sauté them for about eight minutes. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon.
Lower the heat to medium and add the mushrooms. Sauté them just until they give up their liquid, for about eight minutes. Remove to the bowl with the onions and carrots.
Place the couscous in a serving bowl. Add the vegetables and toss well. Sprinkle on the cumin and toss again. Taste and correct for seasoning.
Serves four to six.
Note from Phyllis: This is a free-form recipe you can have fun with. Feel free to add any diced vegetable such as butternut squash, turnips or parsnips.
Veal with Mushrooms
Ingredients:
1 pound of mushrooms of choice, wiped clean and sliced
8 slices of veal scallopini, about 1-1/2 pounds total, wiped dry with paper towels
Flour for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon of Canola oil
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
1/2 cup of dry white wine
1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
Fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped
Directions:
Dredge the veal in the flour, shaking off the excess.
Heat the oil over medium in a large skillet. Add the butter, and once it has melted, quickly sauté the veal for about two minutes on each side. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove to a warm platter and cover with foil.
Add the mushrooms to the pan. Sauté them for about eight minutes. Remove them to a bowl with a slotted spoon.
Add the wine to the skillet. Raise the heat to high and using a wooden spoon, loosen up the brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Lower the heat to medium and add the butter. Return the veal to the skillet, top with the mushrooms and heat through.
Arrange the veal on a serving platter and top with the parsley.
Serves four.
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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