27140587
Jose Garces is one of the most talented chefs in the city, creating food that bursts with rustic flavors inspired by the Spanish Basque region. I found the dining experience at his first restaurant, Amada, to be superb. I also thought it too expensive and the portions too small. But soon after I reviewed it, he lowered the prices.
Garces recently opened Tinto near 20th and Sansom streets and I asked my friend Jill to accompany me because we had enjoyed the fare at Amada.
Tinto was packed to near capacity at 5:30 p.m. The bar was filled and there were a few empty spots in the rear dining room. We were shown to a small table for two right near the kitchen.
It was a warm day and the air conditioning should have been on — dining at its best must include the proper ventilation. Trying to hoist myself onto the high chair while surrounded by very soft lighting was no easy task. There was nowhere to place my handbag; I could not leave it under the tall table because I would have had to crawl on my hands to fetch it. Hooks should be attached under the tables so guests can hang their purses.
Our server was pleasant and explained some of the dishes. I ordered a glass of Baumann sauvignon blanc ($8) while Jill asked for a cabernet and received Par�s Balt� ($9).
Each dish we savored was spectacular in taste, presentation and eye appeal. Complimentary thin "cigars" of fried cheese, similar to the Italian frico, were crisp and slightly salty. We then proceeded with a mix of "pintxos," the Basque version of tapas, and other fare.
We ordered a succession of hot and cold dishes, beginning with "jamon Serrano" ($9) and "abbaye de belloc" ($7). Serrano is Spain’s most famous ham and it was sliced razor thin and served with bread. It was refreshingly light and presented on a long rectangular platter. The "abbaye de belloc" is a sheep’s milk cheese made for centuries by Benedictine monks. It had an enjoyable, rich caramelized flavor.
Next up was "mar y tierra" ($14). I don’t usually like beef mixed with seafood, but this was a nifty blend of tender beef and bits of sweet lobster tossed with crunchy peanuts and served with a garlicky aioli, which really did the dish justice. We also ordered the "de pato" ($11), which consisted of two bread slices topped with rare duck breast, slightly sweet black cherries and a Basque blue-cheese spread.
Fresh fava beans are in season and I can never get enough. We ordered "habas al grat�n" ($8) and "hongos a la plantxa" ($9). Both arrived piping hot in small cast-iron pots. The fava beans were tossed with caramelized pearl onions and "tome d’ayudis," a mild cheese that melted beautifully. Since I usually eat pearl onions cold as part of a charcuterie platter, I had never tasted them caramelized — and these were surprisingly delicious. The other dish was a mix of wild mushrooms and bits of roasted potatoes and shallots, topped with chopped parsley. How can anything so simple be so good? Spaniards are fond of saut�ed potatoes and these were roasted with the mushrooms — a marvelous culinary marriage.
I sipped a glass of Rioja Vega ($8), Spain’s most famous and luscious red wine, with dinner.
The desserts were not intriguing, but there was one that begged a try. "Bananas y azafran" ($8) was a rich chocolate cake served with caramelized sliced bananas in a light saffron cream sauce.
Service was excellent. Our waiter had several assistant servers, which kept our meal at a fine pace.
Tinto has already made its culinary mark in a neighborhood that needs more restaurants, and Garces obviously has done a fine job.
The new spot has about 60 chairs and tables placed very close together, but I would prefer lower furniture for comfort. When we left, though, every seat was taken.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Tinto.
Tinto
114 S. 20th St.
215-665-9150
Credit cards accepted
Reservations recommended
www.tintorestaurant.com
