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"What’s in a name?" William Shakespeare penned in "Romeo and Juliet" adding, "a rose by any other word would smell as sweet."
Restaurant owners christen their businesses with all sorts of monikers. Some reflect the type of cuisine, while others are named for the chef or proprietor. When I heard about a new restaurant called Time, I had no clue what to expect. Sometimes this is a good thing: Who doesn’t like surprises?
I was pleasantly surprised, indeed.
Time is on Sansom Street in the building that housed Ludwig’s Garden for many years. The new owners, Jason Evenchik and his wife, Delphine, live in South Philly. They also own Vintage, a marvelous wine bar with French cuisine a few steps away from the new digs on 13th Street.
Time’s location was gutted and turned into a handsome but spare space with two open, airy rooms with long wood bars, looming ceilings and several clocks dotting the walls.
Many places have happy-hour specials and Time offers selected imported draft beers for just two bucks. Cousin Carl and I never heard of Lion’s Head, a hearty pilsner which was welcome on a warm spring evening. Shane Dodd, the bartender, recommended it. He mixed me a jumbo martini ($10), which was a bargain as well.
The menu is a mix of classics and twists on old favorites. One classic that rated a 10 was the tomato and mozzarella salad ($8). Several thick slices of red, ripe tomatoes were sandwiched between creamy fresh cheese and fragrant, fresh basil leaves. The right touch of vinaigrette topped the appetizer. Here is an example how something so simple can be so delicious when top-quality ingredients are used. These were the tastiest tomatoes I have had since last autumn.
It is a good thing I asked Shane about the oysters Rockefeller ($9). I love that dish, but the menu said the they were coated in panko breadcrumbs and fried — that’s not oysters Rockefeller. Still, we went for it and received a mound of sweet, crispy oysters. The dipping sauce was a bit odd as it was a puréed mix of spinach and avocado. Still, I like fried oysters and the portion was most generous.
Skirt steak has become a popular staple on menus throughout the country though it sometimes is tough, chewy and overpriced. Time’s version ($17) was a real bargain. We ordered it rare and it arrived as such. There had to be at least a half pound of tender beef, nicely seasoned and sliced. I later learned the meat is organic, which accounted for its fine flavor. A pile of crisp, hot french fries with a ramekin of homemade remoulade accompanied it.
Since the portions at Time are large, we wanted to save room for a sweet. Shane recommended the brownie sundae ($7). The brownie was baked with deep, dark semi-sweet chocolate, topped with a hefty scoop of vanilla ice cream. A dreamy caramel sauce was squiggled on the plate. It was a fine combination. Vanilla and caramel is a lovely culinary match.
Though I was stuffed to the brim on my initial visit, I had to return to sample the burger ($12). On my next trip, I found Time serves one of the best I’ve had in a long time. It was big, juicy, made with organic beef and topped with crisp pancetta, cheddar and a thick slice of red ripe tomato. It was served on a soft wheat roll, which I really liked. A mound of hot crisp french fries came with the burger.
Carl and I spent several hours at Time. We enjoyed our meal and chatted with our fellow patrons. A jazz trio plays Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and the music was just right. This is a convivial place.
Time offers a well-planned wine and beer lists, 20 beers on tap, more than 70 single malts and small-batch Bourbons.
Obviously, there is something for everyone at Time. You can make a meal out of appetizers or enjoy a burger and a salad. The food was tasty, the atmosphere welcoming and the staff most friendly.
Three tips of the toque to Time.
Time
1315 Sansom St.
215-985-4800
Credit cards accepted
