Tiffin Bistro

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I know very little about Indian food. I have eaten it about a dozen times or so, and probably the tastiest examples are the hot-from-the-oven samosas a neighbor brings to our block party every September.

There are those who adore Indian cuisine, but its dishes are not among those I crave. Some would think it is because I have a European palate, but I often crave Chinese and Vietnamese fare. India is a large country where the foods differ from region to region, as it’s also part of vast Asia.

That said, I went to Tiffin Bistro with an open mind and palate. Homestyle dishes comprise the menu; this is not fancy, gussied up Indian food.

A couple with a toddler were dining outside, but we chose to eat at the bar since it was early and the dining room was empty. The television was set to CNN, so I was able to catch up on the news while I sipped an expertly mixed perfect Manhattan prepared with Bulleit rye ($10). I recently learned a perfect Manhattan is made with sweet and dry vermouth.

Vegetarians will feel at home at Tiffin Bistro. There are many choices among the appetizers and entrees. The staff, including the bartender, answered my questions and I became more familiar with this cuisine.

Cauliflower bezule ($7) was a tasty way to begin dinner. The florets were gently cooked so they retained a bit of crunch. They were tossed with coconut, mustard seeds and curry leaf imparting a yin-and- yang balance of savory and slightly sweet. The best dish of the night was the aloo papri chaat ($5), a splendid mix of potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt and fragrant mint topped with crisp strips of wheat. I really enjoyed the play of flavors and textures. The mint added just the right touch. It is often used in Indian fare, but spices wind up in the cooking pot more often. I really liked the trio of dipping sauces that came with the appetizers. They were coriander, mango and tamarind. Three vibrant colors woke up my taste buds as much as the diverse flavors. Naan is the national bread of Northern India. I ordered the garlic version ($5) that arrived warm, but I felt a bit more of the seasoning was needed to pep up the flavor.

All the entrees, except for one, are homestyle stews prepared with either shrimp, lamb or chicken. I like stew, but I also like to see diversity on a menu. After much deliberation, we ordered butter chicken ($14) and lamb chettinad ($15). The chicken dish consisted of pieces of boneless thighs simmered in a tomato-onion sauce with spices and fenugreek, a seed usually used in making curries. I spooned some basmati rice onto my plate and topped it with the stew. The tomatoes and onions reduced down into the sauce so there was no contrast of textures. I prefer some vegetables in stews.

I found the lamb needed more braising, as the pieces were a bit chewy. The sauce was different from the one used in the chicken dish. Coconut milk added a velvety finish to the dish, and I detected the flavor and aroma of cumin.

Beer goes well with Indian fare. The bartender recommended a can of T-Rail ($5), large enough to share. I had never heard of this slightly bitter beer, but I enjoyed its flavor with the stews.

Service was attentive and courteous as people begin to arrive as the sun set. A young man ordered an array of vegetarian dishes. I don’t think we will ever crave Indian food, but at Tiffin Bistro, the appetizers offer a contrast of flavors and textures.

Two tips of the toque to Tiffin Bistro. 

Tiffin Bistro

1100 Federal St.
215-468-0104
tiffin-bistro.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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