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I wish I could travel back to that glamorous time, when people traveled on ocean liners, dressed up for dinner, danced to jazz, sipped dry martinis and ate classic American dishes.
This marvelous era has been recreated at The Oceanaire Seafood Room, a new restaurant at Seventh and Walnut. Formerly a bank, the spot was totally gutted and transformed into a beautiful art-deco masterpiece. The design echoes the sleekness of old ships, with high ceilings looming over the bi-level space. Rich, dark woods are offset by silver trim. Comfortable, red booths harken back to the days of FDR. Tables are covered with crisp, white linen and soft jazz lingers in the air. The acoustics are perfect. It is the most drop-dead beautiful new restaurant in town.
The chef in charge is Anthony Bonett, born and raised in South Philly, who gained high marks when he was creating marvelous dishes at Philadelphia Fish & Co. and the now-closed Opus 251. He has another winner here.
Edward and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary Nov. 8 at The Oceanaire.
Even though it was dinner for two, we slid into a big booth, sipped jumbo dry martinis ($11.95) and looked over the menu, which changes daily. It was a bit overwhelming at first because there is so much to choose from. More than 25 fish from around the world might be on offer at any time, but Bonett only buys immaculately fresh seafood.
A number of condiments sit on the table, such as oyster crackers, Old Bay and hot sauce, so you never have to ask for a thing. A complimentary relish tray with crisp vegetables, olives and pickled herring arrived to nibble on with our drinks, along with a warm, round loaf of bread and a ramekin of softened butter.
There are few places in town that offer classic clams casino. The Oceanaire’s version ($8.95) took me back to the ones I enjoyed as a child. Six good-size top neck clams were topped with minced red bell peppers, a touch of onion and a slice of heavenly smoky bacon. They were broiled and nested on a bed of rock salt. I could easily have enjoyed another half dozen.
Edward’s big bowl of New England clam chowder ($6.95) was rich, piping hot and loaded with sweet, tender clams, potatoes and celery. It was perfectly seasoned and probably the best I’ve tasted in a long time. A cup ($4.95) also is available.
Alaska halibut is one of my favorites. This white-flesh, meaty fish with a light flavor is best when simply cooked. Bonett buys top-of-the-line T-bone halibut ($34.95) and brushes it with a bit of extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Mine was dusted with fresh herbs before being grilled. Weighing at least half a pound, the fish was slightly translucent inside and the center bone added a mildly sweet flavor.
Edward loves fried fish and Bonett has put together a masterpiece. The Fisherman’s Platter ($24.95) was huge: Two people could easily share it. Edward received fried cod, shrimp, oysters and scallops surrounded by a large mound of matchstick-cut french fries, which were accented with a shake of salt and vinegar. (Vinegar on fries is a Canadian and British culinary practice.) Each piece of fish was crisp on the outside and juicy inside. Bonett may have used a mix of breadcrumbs, including panko, to achieve such a scrumptious crunch. We wanted fresh asparagus ($9.99) to share, but the waiter said the full order would be too much, so we ordered a half. The homemade hollandaise sauce, served in a silver sauceboat, was rich with lemon and never once congealed.
Since it was our anniversary, and we were dining on fish, Edward ordered a bottle of 2005 Domaine Saupin Muscadet from the Loire Valley in France ($27). I took a sip and became a little misty-eyed as my thoughts returned to the first days of our marriage. We first tasted this crisp, dry wine during our honeymoon in London and Paris.
Our waiter surprised us with baked Alaska for dessert, which I have not seen on a menu in years. The bottom layer was a rich chocolate cake, topped with ice cream and whipped meringue. The waiter lit a match and flambéed the confection tableside. Half of it was toted home and went straight into our freezer.
Service was excellent. The dining room was busy with a table of four businessmen, a group of young professional women celebrating a friend’s birthday, couples and larger groups. Everyone received the same fine treatment.
I would rather dine at The Oceanaire than other places that serve strange combinations and offer tiny portions. Here, the food is top quality and the freshness of each ingredient speaks for itself. It is one of the best new restaurants of the year.
Three tips of the toque to The Oceanaire.
The Oceanaire Seafood Room
700 Walnut St.
215-625-8862
