The Fat Ham

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I have made numerous road trips throughout the South, savoring some truly fine dishes. The best of the lot were served to me in mom and pop restaurants such as Bullord’s, on the South Carolina/North Carolina border, where tiny, crispy fried shrimp and fries along with iced tea made my afternoon. Twenty-five years ago, on a glorious late summer morning, I sat on a dock on Shem Creek just outside Charleston, S.C., waiting for the commercial fishermen to bring in their catch, so I could try shrimp and grits for the first time.

Southern food is simple food, and the less done to the ingredients, the better. Chef Kevin Sbraga, winner of “Top Chef: Washington, D.C.,” understands this notion as well as he does French cuisine. He traveled throughout the South searching for ideas for The Fat Ham, his five-month-old casual restaurant in University City.

He hit it on the nose.

The focus of the room is the long wooden bar and what appeared to be every bottle of Bourbon and rye whiskey made in America. I slid onto a stool and sipped an expertly mixed Maker’s Mark Manhattan ($12) and tried to decide what I wanted for dinner. Kudos to Sbraga for putting together a menu of enticing dishes printed large enough so anyone can actually read it with the aid of the hanging lights over the bar and throughout the dining room.

The Fat Ham features a series of small plates that are meant to be shared. I am not fond of small plate meals, but I went with the flow and made some selections.

Mustard greens ($8) consisted of a mound of freshly-shredded, tangy fresh greens topped with chopped peanuts and dressed with a splash of oil and vinegar. I’m a sucker for anything pickled, and the pickled shrimp ($8) made me pucker. Tiny, perfectly cooked red shrimp spent some time in white vinegar, dill and slices of hot pepper. They were served cold in a small glass jar along with triangles of homemade white bread toast and the tastiest homemade mayonnaise that has ever passed my lips.

I have not seen blackened anything on a menu since the New Orleans craze came and went in our city more than 20 years ago. When it is fresh, catfish can be an enjoyable experience. Sbraga and his line cooks keep it simple. A firm thick slice of fish was covered in spices and quickly seared. I loved the crispy skin and the light sauce included on the plate. Some small pieces of purple and white cauliflower were added for crunch.

Shrimp and grits is a culinary philosophy. This dish has caught on in Philly for the past few years. Every chef makes it differently. The shrimp can be lightly boiled, seared or charcoal grilled. The choice of grits is crucial to the success of the dish. Instant Quaker grits does not cut it. At The Fat Ham, this dish ($14) begins with white stone-ground grits that have been lovingly cooked with tiny pieces of ham. This technique imparted one heck of a flavor. Four shrimp that spent some time on the grill were placed on top, emitting a smoky flavor and aroma. Unfortunately, the first platter arrived cold. Its replacement was piping hot and quite comforting.

The Fat Ham was out of pork belly, but one fine dish was on offer in its stead. Like shrimp and grits, ribs are a philosophy in the South. Everyone is an expert and everyone is a critic. Sbraga’s version ($15) was a glorious creation. The ribs were marinated in cola, slow simmered for hours, napped with a dry rub and presented at the right temperature. Homemade red bliss potato salad, tossed in a bit of mayonnaise and some charred scallions, made this a complete dish.

Charred cabbage ($9) was an unusual concoction that arrived in a very hot cast-iron pan. Charring it brings out the cabbage’s natural sweetness, but I have never had it topped with homemade tomato sauce and cheese. This may be a Sbraga original, especially since he is Italian on his father’s side.

The site’s beers hail from America. We shared a bottle of Central Waters ($6), which I found akin to a Guinness, but not as dark and heady. I liked this beer better.

One thing was missing. At Sbraga, the chef serves his wife’s homemade popovers. I offer a hint: How about Southern biscuits with ham?

Three-and-a-half tips of the toque to The Fat Ham.

The Fat Ham

3131 Walnut St.
215-735-1914
sbragadining.com/fatham

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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