The Center City Grille

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I always keep a reporter’s notebook in my handbag. If I happen upon a new restaurant, I whip out my journal and write down the particulars.

This happened last month while strolling by The Center City Grille & Lounge just off 20th and Market streets. I took home a menu.

After several days of brutal heat and eating cold foods at home, I decided to go to an early Saturday night dinner. My sister Sandy was visiting for a long weekend and I instinctively knew there were a number of dishes that would please her picky palate.

The interior is high tech decked out in black leather sofas, comfortable high back black chairs and silver tables. The staff is welcoming, young and friendly. A waiter pushed a few tables together so we could watch the Phillies.

At fi rst glance, you might think this is the kind of place for a burger and a beer. But the menu also offers well-prepared fresh salads and soups. Since prices are so reasonable, I made a return solo lunch visit and met my friend Jim, the financial planner.

Sandy, Edward and I settled in. Edward sipped a Yards BTL ($5) that came with a cold frosty Pilsner glass while Sandy and I nursed small martinis ($9.50).

Much care went into the preparation of salads. The Southwestern ($9) was a composed salad like a Nicoise. It contained fresh cool greens, roasted sweet corn, tiny black beans, crisp bits of Applewood smoked bacon, tomatoes, creamy avocado tossed in a homemade ranch dressing. My sister, who did not order a salad, immediately stuck her fork into my plate. We both agreed on the eye and taste appeal here.

Edward’s house salad ($6) was not your run-of-the-mill mix of iceberg, mesclun, cucumber and carrot. It was a mound of fresh greens, romaine, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion and blue cheese topped in a homemade blue cheese dressing. Both were generous enough to share, so our server brought a plate for Sandy.

Burgers ($11) were big and juicy. A mound of seared medium-rare ground sirloin was served on a soft roll (could be Le Bus or Metropolitan) with slightly sweet caramelized onions, a choice of cheese (we opted for cheddar), a slice of red ripe tomato, lettuce and a kosher dill. The french fries — among the best I’ve sampled in a while— were crisp, piping hot, free of grease and only required a sprinkling of salt.

The Reuben ($10) was served closed and not open-faced. Edward ate it with a knife and fork. He is the only person I know who eats a Reuben in this nutty manner. He also eats french fries with a fork. I don’t think he likes eating with his hands as I do. Anyway, the corned beef was not Jewish deli style. It was dry and way too lean. Make sure you ask for unsweetened iced tea ($2.25). I asked for iced tea and it was loaded with sugar. The waiter did not know both teas were available.

On my solo visit with Jim, the Caesar salad ($9) was cool and crisp. No rusty romaine here. I particularly liked the homemade croutons. Powdered Parmesan was sprinkled on top.

Jim and I sampled the stuffed mushrooms ($9). They were lukewarm and swimming in a greasy pool of oil, butter and water. They were stuffed with spinach and topped with cheese and bread crumbs.

The soup of the day ($5) was wild mushroom prepared with fungi grown in Kennett Square. It was so hot that I had to sip my iced tea before I tasted it. This fine potage was heady and rich and took me back to the mushroom soup made famous by Friday, Saturday, Sunday.

My BLT ($7) was served on thick slices of toasted farmhouse white bread. Applewood smoked bacon was layered with American cheese, sliced ripe tomato and red leaf lettuce. Fries came with it.

Unfortunately, Jim’s classic club sandwich ($9) was made with salty processed turkey. Still, it was jumbo and satisfied his appetite. His lunch came with chips.

Service on all visits was courteous and always with a smile.

The Center City Grille & Lounge keeps long hours, especially on weekends when pub crawlers arrive for a bite to eat, a beer and maybe some dancing.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to The Center City Grille & Lounge.

The Center City Grille
20th and Market streets
267-861-0216

39449713
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