27144527
The food and beer of Belgium has become popular in the city ever since Tom Peters opened Monk’s on South 16th Street more than 10 years ago. Peters introduced me to the Belgian brews at Monk’s, which has become an always-crowded gathering place for those who love mussels with french fries and spicy sausages.
I am pleased to announce Peters, along with business partner Fergus "Fergie" Carey of Fergie’s Pub, have taken over the old Tavern on Green at 21st and Green streets and christened it The Belgian Caf�. Only open a little more than a week, it is bursting with patrons.
The menu is moderately priced and there are a number of Belgian beers on tap as well as in bottles. Peters and Carey are still fine-tuning the interior, but this has not deterred anyone from dropping in. The menu states "the bar was inspired by Gothic architecture found in the old sections of Antwerp, Brugge and Brussels. John Dorety created the space using salvaged wood and detail pieces rescued from Philadelphia-area buildings."
The bar was bustling at 5:30 p.m. but my friend Gloria, who joined me for a delightful dinner, and I managed to take the last two vacant bar stools. I wanted something new, so I asked the congenial bartender to recommend a beer. A pint of Blanchede Bruxelle ($7) was blond and crisp, much like a fine Champagne. After our drink, Gloria and I ventured into the open, airy dining room.
Peters and Carey commissioned Andrew Wrigley, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, to paint the Art Nouveau murals. They are works-in-progress, but their beauty is already obvious.
The menu is similar to Monk’s and that’s fine with me, especially since I can now walk across the Ben Franklin Parkway anytime a hankering for a burger or mussels comes over me.
We began with a cup of delectably creamy mussel bisque ($3.50) and smoked trout ($7.95). The nicely seasoned bisque was smooth as velvet, prepared with mussel stock and the perfect amount of cream. The chopped mussels in the soup accompanied two that were still in their shell.
Smoked trout is one of my favorite Jewish deli foods from childhood, but we call them "chubbies." The plate was aesthetically pleasing and I could not wait to dig in. The fish was obviously smoked in-house and sat on a bed of mesclun topped with horseradish cream. The plate also contained tiny capers, chopped sweet red onion and ripe tomatoes. Three "croutons" — small slices of toasted baguette — made the dish a knockout. Our server brought a ramekin of horseradish cream for the toast.
Although the menu lists appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, salads and plates, I came for the mussels. There are seven varieties to choose from and each is made with a different Belgian beer. "Moules frites" come in two sizes: bowl (9.95) or pot ($18.95).
"I will have the pot," I told my server.
"You can eat 50 mussels?" she asked in awe.
"I guess not," I replied. "I will have the bowl."
I ordered "moules" Van Eyck-style. The 25 to 30 fresh mussels were prepared with garlic sausage, herbs de Provence and Piraat Belgian ale. They were enhanced by good-sized bits of sausage, fresh garlic and mixed herbs of thyme, marjoram, rosemary, sage and basil. The fries were a triumph; no one makes them better. They came out so piping hot that after 10 minutes, they were still hot. The heaping order was dusted with cayenne and deep fried to a golden, slightly red hue. Homemade garlic mayonnaise is the dip of choice in Belgium and accompanied my meal.
Gloria ordered the garlic sausage on baguette ($8.95). Sandwiches come with a small salad, which is a nice practice. Her dish was a fat, French, garlic sausage nestled on a fresh crisp baguette and topped with Dijon. I usually use hot dog rolls when I serve sausage, but this was much tastier. We both liked the texture, with the skin crisp as it should be. Although bagged mesclun was served, the greens were fresh and not a bit overdressed in a simple vinaigrette.
The dining room was filling up with couples and families and I watched a small boy dig into his bowl of mussels with gusto.
From the desserts we selected a fig tart and a chocolate tart. Both were homemade and downright dreamy. Since we were running late, we asked for them to go.
The server brought our sweets and a surprise that made them even sweeter. "The desserts are on us," she said with a smile. "We have only been open for one day and the dessert button on the computer does not work."
When I arrived home, I opened the container and found two round individual tarts. The fresh fig tart was made with a graham cracker crust. Figs are coming into season now and their slightly sweet flavor is something I always welcome.
The chocolate tart was outstanding, made with a hazelnut crust and semi-sweet imported Belgian chocolate topped with slightly sweetened whipped cream.
Thanks Tom and Fergie — you have another winner.
Three tips of the toque to The Belgian Caf�.
The Belgian Caf�
21st and Green streets
215-235-3500
Credit cards accepted
