Tapestry

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Carole King is one of my favorite performers. She is a multi-talented award-winning singer, songwriter and pianist who turns 70 in February. King’s 1971 album “Tapestry” stayed on the charts for about six years.

When I think of a tapestry, a richly woven colorful piece of huge, heavy European cloth comes to mind. I guess it is because I love visiting museums, looking at the old and modern tapestries on display.

A new restaurant opened in Queen Village called Tapestry. I was intrigued with the name, made a phone call and discovered it’s a gastropub with enough brews to please all beer lovers. It is located at the former site of Adsum, Matthew Levin’s quirky eatery, which abruptly closed when Levin left.

A charming man welcomed Edward, my sister Sandy and I and led us to a simple, black table with matching chairs. The menu is a mix of old and new pub dishes, with some interesting twists.

Edward sipped a Bombay martini, a bargain at just $8.25. Sandy and I were in the mood for wine and the friendly barkeep sent over tastes of a Pinot Grigio and a chardonnay, both $8. The Charles Smith Chardonnay was rich and oaky, which I prefer.

We started with chicken liver mousse ($6), a mixed-green salad ($9) and the charcuterie selections of the day ($12).

The mousse, topped with a bit of microgreens and slightly sweet cherries, was whipped to a smooth creamy texture that won raves all around. We spread it on toast points and gobbled it all down.

The salad contained pickled fennel, which added a piquant flavor to tiny, yellow teardrop tomatoes, baby spinach and mesclun. The salad was overdressed and contained too much vinegar.

A fine collection of thinly sliced cured meats were set out handsomely on a large board. It included imported prosciutto di Parma, sopressata, lomo, bresaola, hot coppa and speck along with a small ramekin of almonds and sweet, tiny sliced dates. Fresh ciabatta slices circled the meats. Edward asked for some Dijon and our server brought over a jar of Grey Poupon. Although each meat was tasty and fresh, the board needed a bit of contrasting flavors. The addition of cornichons and pickled onions would have done the trick.

I am still dreaming of the Shepherd’s pie served up at The Dandelion. When I discovered the chefs at tapestry use minced lamb in the dish, I had to try it. My Shepherd’s pie ($10) arrived hot and bubbly. Minced lamb is sautéed with tiny bits of carrot, topped with whipped potatoes laced with some of Vermont’s finest aged cheddar cheese. I was hooked. It was comfort food at its best although I thought the lamb needed just a wee bit more seasoning. This is a matter of personal taste.

Edward’s pork chop ($12) was cooked pink and not a bit overcooked. We thought the chef had a heavy hand with the cracked pepper that coated the outside of the boneless chop. His dinner came with french fries and a bit of salad.

Edward sampled two beers that our waiter suggested. He enjoyed the Stillwater Stateside Saison ($6) that drank well with the pork.

We were all disappointed with the fried oysters ($13) that Sandy ordered. It should have been on the small plate list and not the platters. She received a small plate with small oysters, which were overfried. Sandy thought someone in the kitchen cut up the oysters into small bits and then fried them. The tartar sauce needed work. It was too thin and lacked flavor. Unlike Edward’s, Sandy’s dinner did not come with fries and salad. Fries and coleslaw are traditional with fried oysters.

Tapestry is a family pub. Highchairs are available. There were a few children enjoying dinner with their parents. When we entered, I thought it might be too dark, but the lighting was sufficient. The music on the sound system coupled with the sounds of people enjoying themselves, raised the acoustics up. At one point, the music was lowered, thank goodness.

Service was spotty, probably because the entire restaurant and bar, which seats about 80, was totally filled. There were people standing in the bar area as well.

Tapestry is a nice addition to Queen Village. It is moderately priced and serves simple fresh dishes, which are always welcome.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Tapestry. SPR

Tapestry
700 S. Fifth St.
215-923-1620
tapestryphilly.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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