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Tasting a wine for the first time is a multi-pleasurable experience. However, tasting one I have never heard of and discovering its nose, flavors and color can be extraordinary.
Edward and I shared this experience at Table 31, owned by chefs Georges Perrier and Chris Scarduzio. We glanced over the wine list and found the majority hideously expensive. The Cotes du Rhone and a Yalumba Australia shiraz-viognier were each $39. Chris, our waiter, recommended the wine from Down Under. It was a deep, dark ruby red, redolent with aromas and flavors of prunes and chocolate.
The wine was just part of the delightful evening at Table 31 in the Comcast Center.
The dining room has a masculine feel, done up in shades of brown and beige with pretty orange hanging lights.
Warm crusty bread with a dish of whole chickpea hummus kept us happy as we discussed the menu. Chris proved to be not only knowledgeable about wine but schooled in every menu item. I had received a mailer announcing a new three-course $35 dinner.
Fresh mozzarella with a salad of fresh baby spinach and spicy arugula had creamy and fresh cheese made with buffalo milk. I found the greens portion small, a bit overdressed and too salty. The chefs must be using fleur de sel or some other fancy salt. I prefer plain kosher salt because of the balance of flavors. The salad was whisked away and replaced with another appetizer that fared much better.
Spaghetti carbonara arrived in a hot bowl. The portion was most generous for a starter. Scarduzio, who was born and raised in South Philadelphia, has trained his kitchen staff well. The pasta had a perfect blend of cream, eggs, Parmesan, bits of bacon and tiny peas. I could taste each ingredient and found they enhanced one another.
Edward ordered wild striped bass, and I tried the flat iron steak.
Striped bass has a mild flavor. This version was pan-seared and served with smashed peas. The fish’s wine sauce was light and did not overwhelm the entree.
I ordered my steak very rare, and it arrived as requested. There were three broad slices of beef along with fingerling potatoes and green beans. The veggies were on the potatoes, with the meat atop the mound. Chris advised the chianti sauce was a bit sweet, so I asked for the bearnaise, which was obviously homemade.
Desserts included a rich, warm chocolate lava cake with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream and a trio of small ice cream cones, which brought a smile to Edward’s face. The rich individual chocolate cake may be passe to food snobs, but I relished every morsel. The flavors of the night included the aforementioned vanilla, as well as black cherry and pistachio.
You would never know a recession was taking place, as Table 31 was filled. The casual bar, which offers a list of items for $9, was busy. I watched the staff move about the dining room with the ease and grace of ballet dancers. They cleared and served, replaced silverware and filled our wine and water glasses. They were professional and watched the tables.
As we were paying the check, Scarduzio came into the dining room. I had met him at the now-shuttered Brasserie Perrier and he sat down for a chat.
He told me the restaurant is becoming an Italian steakhouse and handed me the new menu. He said he had added more pasta dishes along with veal and chicken.
The expensive steaks will remain, but diners will have the option of the prix fixe meal. Offering more moderately priced items on the regular menu is a fine idea.
I looked over the additions and found chicken with wild mushrooms, a personal favorite. I have to make a return visit.
Three tips of the toque to Table 31.
Table 31
17th Street and JFK Boulevard in the Comcast Center
215-567-7111
www.table-31.com
