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I first met chef Tom Harkins in the early 1990s when he was working at the Rittenhouse Hotel. Harkins, who grew up in South Philadelphia and still marches with the Mummers on New Year’s Day, graduated from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America and has an instinctive talent when it comes to creating dishes.
He was at the helm of Moshulu and the now-closed Circa on Walnut Street. He was recently appointed executive chef at Solefood in the Loews Hotel.
This beautiful space consists of a circular bar, lounge and dining room. It is brilliantly designed in Deco style: lush, with black and silver. The large mosaic in the dining room is a riot of hot colors like orange, red and gold. It is the closest place we have to the Rainbow Room in New York City.
I looked forward to sampling Harkins’ menu, as he has a skilled hand with fresh fish. He always allowed the finest ingredients to speak for themselves, each of them being on the plate for a reason.
The bar was doing a brisk business during happy hour. Edward and I sipped a martini. We chatted about the Phillies and then were led to our table in the softly lit dining room.
Tables were set with woven placemats, linen napkins, flatware and pretty glassware. Our waiter has been at Solefood for five years and was well-versed in the menu.
Warm rolls and crisp flat breads were offered, along with pats of softened butter. We perused the well-priced wine list, which was evenly balanced between European and American vintages. We selected a 1995 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve ($30).
The amuse bouche of the evening was immaculately fresh ahi tuna tartar nestled on a crisp wonton and topped with microgreens. This treat also was given to bar patrons during happy hour.
We began dinner with tenderloin of beef carpaccio ($12) and krispy calamari ($11). Harkins used prime-quality tenderloin, sliced so thin you could read a newspaper through it, and scattered shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano on top. My plate also contained a dreamy purée of artichokes, which were seasoned and grilled before they met the food processor. Small triangles of grilled farm bread, dusted with cheese, arrived warm and crisp. The carpaccio was drizzled with a light mustard vinaigrette.
Calamari can be sprinkled with anything from seasoned flour to cornmeal. Harkins coats baby calamari, tentacles and all, in crushed Rice Krispies and the right hint of seasonings. It arrived crispy, as promised, accompanied by a homemade aioli laced with Chipotle pepper to give it the right kick. This garlic mayonnaise was a fine change from the usual marinara sauce and the portion was big enough for two.
We shared the Caesar salad ($9), which also contained a culinary twist. Crisp romaine was served with homemade croutons, made from brioche, and tangy white European anchovies. Harkins took this classic American salad to Japan by coating the anchovies in tempura batter and frying them. The dressing was light, enhanced by shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Our waiter did not attack us with the pepper mill, thank goodness, because the salad didn’t need a thing.
Although there is a chicken dish, steak and loin of lamb on the menu, we came to Solefood for fish. I ordered the organic Scottish salmon ($25), while Edward went for the special: seared red snapper ($28).
The Scots are known for their salmon, which has a marvelous wild flavor that isn’t found with farm-raised. This dish was spring on a plate. I received about 8 ounces of tasty salmon, grilled to juicy perfection. It was slightly translucent inside – as it should be, to my taste. Harkins added two grilled whole baby artichokes, fresh plum tomatoes that were smoked and slow cooked and a scattering of slightly crunchy spring peas topped off with a light horseradish sauce.
Edward’s red snapper was about the same size as my fish, baked in a lightly seasoned sauce and accompanied by fresh tomatoes and the same dollop of artichoke purée. It was not a bit overcooked.
After dinner, Harkins came into the dining room and chatted. He was happy to be back in the hustle-and-bustle of a hotel. He creates the dishes served at parties, weddings, etc.
He also wanted us to sample dessert. The artisan cheese plate contained small bites of handmade cheese. I particularly liked the Irish cheddar. The plate also included a handful of fresh blackberries, blueberries and raspberries. The crème brûlée sampler was delicious, especially the banana custard. Three scoops of homemade mousse – covered with rich, dark chocolate – was the right sweet for chocoholics. The peanut butter mousse was divine.
Service was excellent throughout. Our waiter told us the majority of patrons are hotel guests, but now that Harkins is in charge, Philadelphians should book a table.
Three tips of the toque to Solefood.
Solefood
Loews Hotel
1200 Market St.
215-231-7300
Credit cards accepted
Open seven days for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Reservations recommended
