Short Hills Restaurant & Deli

42996309

Twice a year, the Melitta Coffee Co. holds a big sale at its warehouse in Cherry Hill. I stock up on coffee, filters and sometimes pick up a gift or two, especially in November. The sale also means we are doing a Jersey run.

Shopping makes me hungry. For the past few years, we have enjoyed brunch, lunch or dinner at Short Hills, a restaurant/deli which satisfies my cravings for pastrami on rye, a chopped liver platter or bacon and eggs.

Short Hills has a big menu, but there’s something for everyone on it. The only disappointments are the dinner hot platters. Just avoid them. Describing how awful they are isn’t worth my column inches.

The minute you sit down, a smiling server brings kosher dill pickles, including half dones which are my favorite, and a sweet health slaw. Here’s what Edward, my sister Sandy, cousin Carl and I have woofed down on numerous occasions.

The chopped liver appetizer ($9.99) makes for a perfect lunch. A scoop of homemade just-as-good-as-mine chopped liver made with schmaltz, is served on a bed of fancy lettuce along with sliced tomatoes, onion, green peppers, cucumber and radishes. I like it with challah or Jewish rye on the side.

Among the soups are mushroom barley ($2.99), which is a little sweet for my taste, and fluffy matzo ball ($3.29). Both stocks are homemade and not a bit salty.

As Reubens go, Short Hills gets a B plus. Its version ($11.99) is served open face on grilled Jewish rye. Ask for fatty corned beef because it is filled with flavor. The sandwich is topped with sauerkraut, melted Swiss and Russian dressing.

The hot pastrami ($11.99) is about the best you can get this side of the Delaware River (The pastrami served up at Delicatessen, 703 Chestnut St., is first rate). Short Hills’s pastrami is not at all salty and has the right amount of fat to keep the beef juicy. You get a bag of chips with sandwiches.

Sandy recently enjoyed a big Angus beef cheeseburger ($9.99) and asked for onion rings instead of French fries.

“It’s $1.50 extra,” our server said.

I found them greasy but Sandy gobbled them down. Short Hills serves French fries in a wax paper-lined metal cone. They’re usually limp and greasy.

The cheesesteak ($8.99) is almost as fine as the ones served up at Jim’s on South Street. The steak is juicy and has just the right amount of grease (a good thing) from the grill.

A Sunday brunch means bagels and lox. The nova platter ($14.99) features beautifully sliced glistening Nova Scotia salmon along with cream cheese and all the trimmings you get with the chopped liver appetizer. Except here, you get slightly salty Greek olives with brunch. You also get a real bagel, not Wonder bread with a hole.

I took a bite of cousin Carl’s grilled chicken breast sandwich ($8.99) and pronounced it perfect. Chicken breast can sometimes be over-grilled and dried. This one was juicy and tender. It comes on a soft roll, which Carl and I prefer. French fries, cole slaw, lettuce and tomato complete the dish.

Short Hill’s chef salad ($12.99) is so big, two could share it. It’s a classic favorite for me and includes Swiss cheese, roasted turkey breast, ham, hard boiled eggs, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, radishes, peppers and fresh greens. A chef salad is not a chef salad without Russian dressing. Short Hill’s dressing is tops.

Like all Jewish delis, Short Hills offers Dr. Brown’s sodas. Choose from celery tonic, cream or black cherry. I don’t drink soda but once in a while, a Dr. Brown’s black cherry is just what the doctor orders. You also get a good strong cup of coffee. It’s definitely not hot water with brown crayon dipped into it.

Service is always friendly and professional. The big booths are comfortable and although Short Hills does not have a liquor license, you are welcome to bring beer or wine to enjoy with your meal. Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Short Hills. SPR

Short Hills Restaurant & Deli
486 Evesham Road
Cherry Hill, N.J.
856-429-6900
http://shorthillsdeli.com

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