Royal treats

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Purim, the joyful festival marking the victory of Queen Esther and the Jewish people over certain death at the hands of the Persians, begins Saturday at sundown. Purim has been called the Jewish Mardi Gras because everyone dresses in costume and reads Megillah, the story of Queen Esther, at synagogue. It is written that Queen Esther’s husband, King Ahasuerus, was probably unaware she was Jewish and his advisor, the evil Haman, was plotting a mass murder of the people of her faith. Queen Esther told her husband who, in the end, stopped Haman from his plan.

The most famous Purim treat is hamantaschen, a triangular pastry filled with poppy seeds, prunes, apricots, pineapple or cherries. It is supposed to resemble the three-corned hat Haman wore. The typical prune filling is called lekvar and can be found this time of year at Jewish delis and gourmet shops.

I found marvelous recipes for Purim sweets in "A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking," by Marcy Goldman. She gives dessert recipes for every Jewish holiday along with advice and tips. Of all the treats that could have graced the book’s cover, the publisher chose a platter of colorful hamantaschen.


Hamantaschen Dough

Ingredients:

1/2 cup of vegetable shortening
1 stick of unsalted butter or unsalted margarine
1-1/4 cups of sugar
3 eggs
1/4 cup of orange juice or milk
1-1/2 teaspoons of pure vanilla extract
4 cups of all-purpose flour, plus more for coating
1/2 teaspoon of salt
2-1/2 teaspoons of baking powder

Directions:

In a mixing bowl, cream the shortening, butter or margarine and sugar together. Add the eggs and blend until smooth. (If the mixture is hard to blend, add a bit of flour to bind it.) Stir in the orange juice or milk. Add the vanilla. Fold in the flour, salt and baking powder. Mix until firm but soft. Transfer to a lightly floured board and pat into a smooth mass. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Divide the dough into two or three flattened discs and work with one portion at a time. Roll out on the lightly floured board until 1/8-inch thick. Use a 3-inch cookie cutter and cut as many as possible. Fill with a generous teaspoonful of filling (recipes below). Draw three sides together into the center. It should be three-cornered. Repeat the process with the remaining dough and filling.

Place on two large parchment paper-lined baking sheets. Bake in the center of the oven until golden brown, about 18 to 25 minutes.

Cool on the baking sheets.

Makes four to six dozen.

Note from Phyllis: Goldman suggests brushing the pastries with an egg wash (a beaten egg with a little water) before baking.


Apricot Filling

Ingredients:

3/4 cup of water or orange juice
1/4 cup of fresh lemon juice
1/2 to 3/4 pound (2 to 3 cups) of dried apricot halves
1/3 cup of sugar, plus more to taste
1 cup of golden raisins
1 cup of walnuts, optional

Directions:

In a small saucepan, heat the water or orange juice, lemon juice, apricots, sugar and raisins on low. Toss and stir until soft, about eight to 12 minutes. Add more water if the liquid in the pan is evaporating quicker than the fruit is cooking.

Let cool for about five minutes.

Place in a food processor and add the walnuts, if desired. Process to a thick puree, adding more water or orange juice if it requires thinning.

Add more sugar, if desired.

Chill for up to two weeks.

If too stiff to spread, loosen with a little warm water or juice.

Makes 2 cups, enough for two-and-a-half dozen pastries.

Note from Phyllis: This recipe can be easily doubled.


Sour Cherry Filling

Ingredients:

1/4 cup of fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup of orange juice
1/4 cup of water
Zest of 1 orange, minced
1/4 teaspoon of almond extract
Pinch of ground cinnamon
1/3 cup of sugar
2 cups of dried sour cherries
1 cup of golden raisins
1/2 cup of finely chopped walnuts, optional

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, heat all the ingredients except the walnuts over low. Stir and toss until soft, about five to 10 minutes. If the mixture sticks, add a bit more water.

Place in a food processor. Let cool for about five minutes. Add the walnuts, if desired, and process to a puree. If it seems too thick, add a bit more water.

Use the filling right away or chill for up to two weeks.

Makes about 3 cups, enough for four dozen pastries.


Mun Kichel (Poppy Seed Cookies)

Ingredients:

3 eggs
1/2 cup of vegetable oil
3/4 cup of sugar
1/2 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract
2-1/2 cups of all-purpose flour, plus more for coating
1/4 teaspoon of salt
1 tablespoon of baking powder
1/4 cup of poppy seeds

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Beat the eggs, oil, sugar and vanilla with an electric mixer until light and voluminous, about five minutes. Fold in the flour, salt, baking powder and poppy seeds.

Roll the dough until 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick, using as little extra flour as possible. Cut it into circles, squares or diamonds.

Bake on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet until lightly browned, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Cool on the baking sheet.

Makes about five to six dozen cookies, depending on size.

Note from Phyllis: These were among my favorites when I was a girl. My grandmother baked them often and they are still in Jewish bakeries and delis.