27126772
Fifteen years ago, the Dock Street Brewery opened a restaurant in Logan Square. It was a big event for those who lived in the neighborhood because, except for the Four Seasons Hotel and Mace’s Crossing, there were no restaurants in that area. Chefs came and went at Dock Street until Olivier De Saint Martin took over the kitchen. He left for Caribou Café, which he now owns, and Dock Street closed its doors.
Last summer, the space re-opened as Public House. In England, pubs are legally called public houses because they have a license to serve beer. This spot had to be a brew pub, although beer was no longer made on the premises.
Little has changed inside the location. The restaurant consists of a long bar and a vast open space divided by booths and a back dining room. My husband, Edward, my mother, Berthe, and I were greeted by the hostess, who showed us to a roomy booth across from the bar. Even though Public House was busy, the noise level was fine and we carried on our conversation.
Jumbo martinis ($8) were expertly prepared. The menu contained many run-of-the-mill dishes like wings and nachos. We studied the offerings to see if we could find a few items to tempt our appetites.
Edward began with a bowl of chili ($7.95). It was very good, indeed, because it was made with bits of beef rather than ground meat. I liked the texture, as the beef melted in my mouth thanks to hours of simmering. The flavor was enjoyable – not too spicy with just the right hint of cumin and chili powder. A square of cornbread came with the chili.
My bleu moon salad ($7.95) was hefty so our waiter brought a plate for sharing. It was well prepared with fresh spring mix, including red leaf lettuce and baby spinach, crumbled Maytag bleu cheese, crunchy walnuts, thin slices of sweet red apples and sliced tomatoes topped with homemade Maytag bleu cheese dressing. The chef adds raisins to the salad, but I asked to omit them. Someone forgot, but Mom liked the raisins, while I just picked them out.
For entrees, we selected the Angus burger ($10.95), salmon of the day ($15.95) and prime rib ($19.95). The burger was made with 8 ounces of freshly ground Angus beef and arrived medium-rare on a soft brioche bun. There is a choice of two toppings, such as sautéed mushrooms, onions, or a choice of cheese. Mom asked for sautéed onions. She also received slices of lettuce and tomato and french fries, which could have been hotter.
The salmon was in a cornbread crust, which did little to enhance the fish. Edward and I thought it was overcooked.
Edward’s dinner came with whipped potatoes and shredded zucchini and carrots. I received the same with my prime rib, but they arrived cold. Our server brought us freshly prepared vegetables as replacements and they were nicely done. The chef mixed mashed potatoes with bits of aged Wisconsin cheddar, chopped scallions, apple smoked bacon and sour cream. Edward, who strongly dislikes zucchini, didn’t mind it so finely shredded. It went well with the carrots.
My roast beef arrived medium-rare and was perfectly slow roasted. Coated with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, the large thick slab of tender and juicy beef had a delicious crust. The portion was so large, Edward helped me finish it. Although it was not like the beef found in high-end steakhouses, this version was fine for the price. I would order it again.
Since it was a bitterly cold evening, we shared a glass of house Cabernet ($7), which was an average California vintage.
The service was excellent. The manager walked from table to table ensuring her patrons were enjoying their meals. She personally went into the kitchen and brought out the hot, freshly prepared potatoes and vegetables.
During our meal, I noticed several families with small children arriving for dinner, along with a couple that lives in our neighborhood, and men and women who work nearby. It appears the restaurant is attracting a broad spectrum of diners and is a fine spot for a burger or a platter before or after a visit to The Franklin Institute or The Academy of Natural Sciences.
Two tips of the toque to Public House.
Public House
1801 Arch St.
215-587-9040
Open for lunch and dinner
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair accessible
