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A number of years ago, the late Pulitzer Prize-winning humorist Art Buchwald wrote a column about Thanksgiving. Buchwald lived in Paris when he was a cub reporter and fell in love with the City of Light. He gave French names to his cast of characters. For example, Myles Standish became Kilometre Deboutish. The punch line: Thanksgiving is the one day Americans eat better than the French.
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. It is a day for feasting on New World foods. Each family has its traditions and ours is no exception. It is not nice to tamper with tradition when it comes to Thanksgiving. The only big change for many Americans in recent years is to quell the quivering feelings of vegetarians at their tables.
Because we are a nation of immigrants, each ethnic group serves a dish or two that is a reminder of the old country. My Austrian-born grandmother always served a towering pyramid of potato balls, which are melt-in-your mouth dumplings, with her bird. As soon as my friend Richard told me his mother serves mashed turnips he did not have to tell me his family is English/Irish. The Brits and the Irish whip up a dish called parsnips and Swedes, their term for turnips. It would not be Thanksgiving for my Italian friends without lasagna or some form of pasta.
We always begin dinner with a seafood course. Sometimes I prepare a fish terrine, but lately it’s been shrimp cocktail simply because I can cook it the day before and everyone loves it. I often make a butternut squash soup. Last week, The New York Times ran an article featuring Sam Kass, the 29-year-old White House assistant chef who enjoys playing golf with President Obama and teaching children how to cook. His Butternut Squash and Roasted Apple Soup sounds delicious.
Although the turkey is the star, an array of side dishes complements our native bird. I always serve mushroom stuffing, Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce and roasted parsnips. I buy several loaves of bread and a selection of pies, usually apple, pumpkin and pecan. I buy my desserts from the Amish bakery in the Reading Terminal Market. I never serve salad at Thanksgiving. It seems out of place. I do set out a relish tray of raw vegetables and olives for those who like a bit of crunch with their meal.
Next week, I will tell you how to roast a tender, succulent turkey, give you the recipe for my stuffing, which Southerners call dressing, as well as side dishes.
Butternut Squash and Roasted Apple Soup Adapted from chef Sam Kass
Ingredients:
2 butternut squash, quartered, seeds removed
2 to 3 Granny Smith apples, cored and quartered
1 to 2 tablespoons of olive or vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 cups of apple cider or juice
2 cups of chicken broth or water, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
1 pinch of nutmeg, or to taste
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
Dried cranberries or cherries, toasted almond slivers and diced apples, for garnish
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Cut each squash quarter in half and place in a large bowl. Add the apples, oil and salt and pepper. Rub in to coat the squash well and transfer to a large baking sheet. Cover tightly with foil. Bake until the apples are soft in center, about 30 minutes.
Transfer the apples to a plate to cool and return the squash to the oven to bake until soft, about 30 minutes more. When the apples and squash are cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh out into a large bowl and discard the skins.
Working in batches, puree the squash and apples in a food processor or blender. If necessary, add some cider to each batch to help puree.
Transfer the puree to a 4- to 6-quart pot. Add the remaining cider and enough broth or water for the desired consistency. Place over a medium-low heat. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon juice. Heat just until steaming and adjust the seasonings to taste.
Ladle into warm bowls. Garnish with the cranberries or cherries, almonds and apples.
Makes 3 quarts.
Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts and Shallots
Ingredients:
2 pounds of Brussels sprouts, the smallest possible, with ends trimmed
2 tablespoons each of olive oil and unsalted butter
2 large shallots, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 15-ounce can of unsweetened whole chestnuts
Directions:
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the sprouts and lower the heat to simmer. Cover and simmer for about 10 minutes. Drain well in a colander and run under cold water. Drain well again.
Heat the oil and butter in the same pot over medium-high. Add the shallots and saut� for about eight minutes. Add the sprouts, salt and pepper. Saut� for about five minutes. Add the chestnuts and heat through.
Serves six to eight.
