Portofino Restaurant

Portofino Restaurant on 12th and Walnut streets has been in business for nearly 35 years, which is a rare achievement considering the number of Italian restaurants in the city.

Recently renovated by owner Ralph Berarducci, the glass door entrance is inviting, the bar is cozy and the dining room is set in warm colors. There were a number of new dishes on the menu, as well, so I thought it would be a good idea to re-visit.

Edward, my mom, Berthe, my sister Sandy and I sipped our good-sized, well-made drinks ($12) and discussed the menu.

Complimentary bruschetta was served, and the bread was warm and crisp, topped with chopped fresh, ripe tomatoes, olive oil and minced Italian parsley leaves. Slices of Italian bread, along with a small dish of extra virgin olive oil, quickly arrived.

Mom’s bowl of minestrone ($5) arrived piping hot and included small white beans rather than macaroni. It was prepared with homemade stock, brimming with fresh vegetables and the right touch of chopped tomatoes.

Fried calamari ($7) is ubiquitous on local restaurant menus, but it is getting harder to find good quality. We received a large mound of fresh baby squid, lightly coated with breadcrumbs and flash-fried. They were crisp and completely free of grease and came with a rich, homemade marinara that tasted of fresh tomato. The presentation was eye appealing, as the squid were nestled in a pretty cloth napkin shaped like a boat.

Portofino has been serving Caesar salad ($7) almost as long as it’s been open. I recall tasting it for the first time more than 25 years ago when few center city restaurants served it. A large mound of torn romaine leaves were tossed in the proper amount of homemade dressing, with a hint of anchovy, topped with Parmesan.

Pappardelle, or ribbon pasta, has become popular within the past few years and is often topped with Bolognese sauce. Portofino’s version ($17) caught my eye because wild mushroom was the star ingredient. Edward and I shared the homemade dish, which had a pretty, pale-orange hue from the tomatoes included in the dough. The simple sauce contained shiitake mushrooms, caramelized onions, a bit of garlic and sliced carrots mixed with minced fresh herbs, olive oil and truffle essence, imparting a delicious flavor. All it needed was a dash of Parmesan.

Mom loves spinach ravioli ($15) and Portofino’s did not disappoint. Arriving in a homemade tomato basil sauce, the pillows were fashioned from spinach dough and filled with a blend of Ricotta and Fontina and bits of fresh spinach. I particularly liked the addition of Fontina, which gave the filling more body and texture.���

As we enjoyed our appetizers, Berarducci made his way through the crowded dining room, chatting with patrons. He recognized Edward and me, but we received the same excellent service as everybody else.

Edward grew up on breaded veal cutlet and he asked for the dish alla Milanese – which is topped with Arugula and shavings of Parmesan – and, after checking with the chef, the waiter said it could be prepared. Veal cutlet alla Milanese is a triumph of taste and texture and this one was perfectly prepared ($19) and could have easily been shared by two people. About 8 ounces of top-quality veal was pounded thin, coated in fresh breadcrumbs and fried to a golden brown. It arrived hot from the pan, nestled on a bed of spicy, baby Arugula and topped with shards of Parmesan.

Sandy’s veal cutlet ($19) was also at least a half a pound, prepared like Edward’s dish. It was topped with melted Mozzarella and perfectly bathed in a fresh tomato sauce.

A choice of pasta or fresh vegetables comes with dinner and Sandy opted for thin spaghetti topped with homemade marinara, which arrived al dente.

I love a simple sauté of veal with artichokes. Unfortunately, my dinner ($21) was the only disappointing dish of the evening. It was cold, the veal lacked flavor and the artichokes came from a can. The meat sat on a bed of cool potato wedges, zucchini and several spears of asparagus, but it lacked the visual appeal of the appetizers, pasta and other entrées. After I politely asked our waiter to return my dinner to the kitchen, he and the maitre d’ apologized and asked if I wanted something else, but I graciously declined.

We enjoyed a glass, filled to the top, of Pinot Noir and Montepulciano ($9) with our dinner.

Berarducci sent espresso, tea and a choice of desserts to our table, which included a Ricotta-filled cannoli covered in white and semi-sweet chocolate; authentic Tiramisu, consisting of a large square of light sponge cake layered with mascarpone, chocolate and espresso; and cheesecake with a chocolate-cookie-crumb crust (which we all liked) and a dense, rich filling that was not too sweet.

Since Portofino is located in the theater district, they have nearly 35 years of experience of getting patrons to the theater on time.

Two and a half tips of the toque to Portofino Restaurant.

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Portofino Restaurant
1227 Walnut Street
215-923-8208
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair accessible
Reservations recommended