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Unless you have been living deep in the Australian Outback, you know the Comcast Center on John F. Kennedy Boulevard is the latest steel and glass marvel to complement our skyline. It looms up into the heavens with a grace and symmetry that would bring a smile to the late Ed Bacon’s face.
When chef Georges Perrier and his business partner, chef Chris Scarduzio, learned about the new building, they thought about opening a restaurant and an outdoor cafe. Table 31 and the Plaza at Table 31 have been open for a few months and have been building a growing clientele.
Every time I walked by the Plaza, it was filled with patrons enjoying lunch, cocktails or dinner. The space is set back from the street so diners do not have to put up with nasty bus fumes and the roar of traffic.
There is a coziness to the Plaza. Bright orange umbrellas dot the space, and soft music plays in the background while people enjoy quiet conversation. The food is prepared at Table 31, Perrier and Scarduzio’s expensive steakhouse. I wanted to try the Plaza first because I am a fan of alfresco dining.
After a quick weather check, I called Cousin Carl and asked him to meet me at the Plaza. We had to wait a few minutes for an available table, but it was a cool evening and I was primed for an enjoyable experience.
Carl sipped something called Wyderis Peach ($5) from Canada, an 11-ounce bottle of fruit cider infused with 5 percent alcohol. It wasn’t a beer, although it was listed with the beers. Carl kind of liked the drink, but I found it too sweet. My Bombay Sapphire martini ($11) kept me content as we perused the menu.
The bill of fare features soup, salads, appetizers, maki, sandwiches, pizza and desserts.
"Let’s start with a pizza," Carl said.
That was fine with me, as both of us were ravenous.
The serrano pizza ($14) was outstanding. It was fashioned with thin slices of slightly salty Serrano ham, long shavings of Parmigianno-Reggiano, spicy arugula, which had been ever so lightly bathed with olive oil, and thin slices of fresh, ripe tomato. The crust was crisp and paper-thin, and the dish was large enough for two.
Next up was a disappointing shellfish salad ($14) consisting of small shrimp with tails intact, tiny bay scallops and a bit of crabmeat that was microscopic. Really small white beans were added to the mix along with some microgreens. The shrimp and scallops tasted waterlogged, and lacked flavor and freshness. Not to be outdone was the thin, creamy mustard dressing that desperately needed seasoning. A grinding of pepper and a splash of salt did nothing to recoup this dish.
Since Scarduzio was born and raised in South Philly, we had to try the pulled pork sandwich ($11), which wasn’t very good. The pork was properly shredded, but the caramelized onions turned the meat much too sweet. The brioche was sweet, as well. A thin layer of melted cheese on the bottom of the roll, along with a slice of tomato and a leaf of Boston lettuce, seemed out of place.
There are several wines by the glass featured on the list at the Plaza. A glass of Malbac Portillo ($9) helped redeem the disappointment of the two dishes. This native French grape made its way to Argentina, where it has been turned into a rich-tasting red wine.
Homemade ice cream ($7) always excites my taste buds. Jim, our waiter, told us you get three scoops of whatever flavor the pastry chef had made that day. We were in luck as they were vanilla, cinnamon and pistachio. The scoops were served in small sugar cones placed in what looked like a pipe rack. The ice cream was delectable, rich, creamy and not at all overly sweet.
Service was courteous and professional. Although the Plaza was filled to capacity, no one had to wait an eternity between courses.
I think I set my culinary hopes too high when Carl and I sat down to dinner. I thought there would be a mix of French (Perrier) and Italian (Scarduzio) inspirations on the menu. Carl was thinking French onion soup, so brilliantly created at Brasserie Perrier, while I would liked to have tucked into an appetizer portion of pasta.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to the Plaza at Table 31.
The Plaza at Table 31
Comcast Center
1701 John F. Kennedy Blvd.
Credit cards accepted
