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Every time I hear the name Stella a specific image comes to mind: A gorgeous, young Marlon Brando clad in an old-fashioned undershirt, muscles glistening, screaming "Stella!" in Tennessee Williams’ "A Streetcar Named Desire."
Stella also is the name Stephen Starr decided on when he opened his new pizzeria at Second and Lombard streets.
We tried to get into Pizzeria Stella on several occasions, but were advised there would be an hour wait. The restaurant does not take reservations. I decided the best time to go is early on a weeknight, especially during bad weather. It worked.
Edward and I were greeted by a smiling hostess who told us we could sit anywhere we wished. We chose to slide onto stools at the marble-topped bar. We had ringside seats, learning how two men patted and stretched homemade dough and topped them off with myriad ingredients. One was in charge of baking the pizzas long-time Starr employee Chris often finished with arugula, Proscuitto di Daniele or other Italian charcuterie.
I want to say bravo to Starr at the outset. Stella is a kid-friendly restaurant. Center City needs more places where children can be comfortable. What kid doesn’t like pizza?
Stella serves wine and beer at moderate prices. Edward selected the house red, a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($5.50), while on Chris’ recommendation I sipped a Due Torri Pinot Noir from Venezie ($7.50).
We noticed Kutztown Sarsaparilla ($4) among the non-alcoholic beverages. Chris poured us a taste. It was the best root beer I’ve ever sampled.
Stella serves pizza, antipasti, insalata and a mixed charcuterie platter or with individual meats that are all from Italy.
Octopus and calamari ($9) was a fine way to begin our meal. Both were tender and the octopus was spot-on. The cool fish was tossed with briny picholine olives, bite-size pieces of new potatoes and red onion. It was nicely dressed in a light vinaigrette.
Edward loves broccoli rabe and I do as well. Stella’s version ($7) was a little mushy for my taste. The vegetable was prepared with a hint of garlic and bits of ricotta salata, a hard, easy-to-slice version of ricotta. The cheese disappeared onto the broccoli rabe. I think the slices would fare better if they were simply served on the plate.
Roasted beet and arugula salad ($7) consisted of sweet, cool red beets bathed in an orange sauce with spicy arugula and shaved Parmesan. It had a slightly Sicilian twist because of the citrus. I liked the unique flavor.
We did not care as much for the grilled radicchio salad ($9). The radicchio lacked grilled flavor and was served cool. There were bits of tangy imported Gorgonzola, but way too many overly sweet cherries that detracted from the cheese’s flavor. Tiny walnuts were included and the salad was overdressed in too much balsamic vinegar, which turned the radicchio an unpleasant dark color.
There are 12 pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven at Stella’s. We opted for the pistachio ($14) and the vongole ($17). The crust was thin and crispy, although there were a few soggy spots on the bottom of the vongole, which is Italian for "clam."
The pistachio was made with red onion. The caramelized onion ruined the pie’s flavor; it was just too sweet. The nuts needed a bit of salt, but the imported Fontina was a good choice. The pie was topped with extra-virgin olive oil.
The vongole’s clams were chopped and a little watery. A mix of chopped garlic and parsley added flavor, as did the scamorza, a firm, slightly salty version of mozzarella.
Homemade gelato is the only dolce at Stella’s. We tried an overly sweet pistachio ($4), although its texture was creamy.
Starr has come up with another winning concept. There are so few places that serve authentic pizza prepared with fresh ingredients.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Pizzeria Stella.
Pizzeria Stella
Second and Lombard streets
215-320-8000
www.pizzeriastella.net
