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After 10 months of anticipation, Marc Vetri opened Osteria on North Broad Street Feb. 15. Vetri has been hailed by the international culinary community since he opened his self-named restaurant in 1998. Gourmet magazine honored it as one of the top 50 restaurants in America. The James Beard Foundation also has applauded Vetri and his restaurant.
We went to Osteria on a Tuesday evening, which is usually slow for restaurants, but my mother Berthe, my husband Edward and I were in for a surprise. During our two-hour dinner, the place was filled with diners, including a few well-known Philadelphians.
Osteria, which means "tavern" in Italian, is a huge space with soaring ceilings, tall windows and highly polished wood tables set with beige paper place mats and linen napkins. Exposed brick walls, warm colors, pale terra cotta floors and an open kitchen add to its rustic look. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of a loft building.
We settled into a roomy table and perused the menu of hearty Italian fare Vetri and executive chef Jeffrey Michaud have put together. Ingredients from local farms found their way into every dish.
Edward and I sipped our customary martinis ($11), which were served in Italian crystal glasses. Bread warmed in the wood-burning oven and breadsticks kept us happy as we decided on dinner. A small, stainless-steel can with a narrow spout made pouring the rich-green, extra-virgin olive oil onto our plates a breeze.
Our server came over and I asked if she could write down the eight specials so we could discuss them. Our server happily obliged. Among the specials was an antipasto of fire-roasted vegetables ($12 per person), which was a feast for the eyes and the taste buds. It contained roasted fennel, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, beets, baby Brussels sprouts, onions and mushrooms. The antipasto was generous and could easily serve two.
My "tricolore" salad ($10) was red, white and green, the colors of the Italian flag. Crisp endive, hearts of romaine and radicchio were bathed in a heavenly bagna cauda dressing and topped with anchovies. "Bagna cauda," the hot anchovy sauce used for dipping vegetables, also works beautifully as a dressing.
Mom ordered a Margherita pizza ($15). Just before the antipasto and salad arrived, the pizza was brought to the table. It was perfection: a thin crisp crust topped with fresh plum tomatoes, basil and mozzarella.
Edward often likes to sample a "contorni," or a side dish, as a first or second course. He chose artichokes alla romana ($8), which arrived in a round soufflé plate. They were nicely grilled and topped with olive oil and lemon juice.
Vetri has employed two wine captains. Karina Lyons, who has worked in restaurants throughout the country, most recently at Susanna Foo’s now-shuttered restaurant in the Borgata, approached us with a smile.
"What is your cheapest red wine by the glass?" Edward asked. Without missing a beat, she pointed out it would be more economical if we ordered a bottle of Librandi Ciro ($30) from Calabria.
We sampled two appetizer portions of homemade pasta ($8). Candele with wild boar bolognese was a tasty change from the usual tagliatelle or pappardelle alla bolognese. The wide almost-square ribbon pasta was a first for us.
Capon tortellini in brodo with pecorino cheese was sheer culinary brilliance. An Italian version of chicken noodle soup, the tortellini melted in my mouth and the rich capon broth could cure any ailment. We thought it was one of the best dishes of the evening.
Next up was "casoeula," a hearty mix of braised pork ribs on the bone with sausage and cabbage served on soft polenta ($24) that inspired me to clean my plate.
Edward and I love rabbit. Osteria’s ($26) was prepared on the bone with crisp pancetta and fresh sage topped with a brown butter sauce. It, too, was served on soft polenta. I was fortunate to get a taste before Edward finished his entire plate.
From the dolci we selected a trio of homemade gelati: pistachio (my favorite), vanilla (Edward’s favorite) and pineapple sorbet.
Dining at Osteria was one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had in a restaurant. It was a flawless evening filled with fine food and laughter and the staff took care of every need. The level of the music coming from the sound system, the lighting and the food were all perfect.
I have one suggestion: Specials with prices should be printed on a separate sheet so diners may discuss them and make selections.
The new year is young, but Osteria is already in the running for the best new restaurant of 2007.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Osteria.
Osteria
640 N. Broad St.
215-763-0920
Credit cards accepted
