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In 1998, restaurateur Neil Stein opened Rouge on Rittenhouse Square. He wanted it to be an authentic French bistro, just like those in Paris. It has large windows that open out during warm weather, with tables and strong wicker chairs that spill onto the sidewalk.
Stein may not have known it at the time, but he started a Philadelphia dining revolution. Every neighborhood has sidewalk cafes offering a myriad of cuisines. Summer dining in this city has become outdoor entertainment.
Anyone can enjoy a cocktail, glass of wine, lunch, brunch, dinner or a snack on a roof deck, in a garden, on a patio, aboard a ship floating on the Delaware River or right on the city’s busy sidewalks.
I have many favorites for dining alfresco. I like Rouge because the chefs cook terrific, big juicy hamburgers. At Brasserie Perrier, South Philly-born chef Chris Scarduzio creates his own special French/Asian/Italian cuisine with his onion soup being among my favorites. Large, fresh salads and delicious seared fish with vegetables are my choice during dinner.
For more than 20 years, Kevin and Janet Meeker, owners of Philadelphia Fish & Co., have offered a delightful array of fresh dishes from the sea. Their Old City restaurant has a lovely deck with sprawling umbrellas. But what I have always liked is the consistency in the kitchen. The Meekers introduced Hawaiian fish to the area and have hosted chef Sam Choy on a number of occasions. Much what I know about fish came from Kevin’s deep understanding of the creatures of the sea.
My two favorites in Northern Liberties are Deuce and Bar Ferdinand. Standing side by side in a large outdoor space, they serve two different kinds of cuisine. Deuce offers New American bistro fare, like good burgers and hanger steak, while Bar Ferdinand specializes in tapas and fine food from Spain. Both are moderately priced, including the beer, wine and cocktail lists. I like Bar Ferdinand so much I would eat there once a week if I lived in the neighborhood.
One of the most unusual spots to dine outside is Cadence in the Kimmel Center. Glass doors lead to a long balcony high above Verizon Hall, which affords a spectacular view of Avenue of the Arts. It is breathtaking to see City Hall at night in the glow of brightly lit streetlamps. Cadence, open for lunch and dinner, is New American fare with Italian, Asian and French flair.
A few blocks away is Bliss, Franco Martorella’s fine-dining spot that draws theater, ballet and orchestra crowds, as well as tourists and a loyal clientele. Martorella, who was born and raised in South Philadelphia, is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and one of the chefs at the Four Seasons Hotel when it opened in ’83. An Italian-American, Martorella prepares fine Italian cucina and has mastered French and Asian fare. He learned the basics of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines from Eileen Yin-Fei Lo, a well-known Asian cooking teacher and cookbook author. On any given night, a French-style duck could be on the menu alongside marvelous plump spring rolls.
My favorite outdoor spot in Fairmount is Illuminaire, Brian Augustine’s lovely eatery that was a big plus for the neighborhood when it opened five years ago. I like the cozy patio with lanterns where Edward and I share designer pizza, salads or a complete dinner.
Waterworks, near the Art Museum, has an expansive patio offering a fine view of the Schuylkill River while serving American fare with an Asian twist. It is open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.
Passyunk Avenue has become a jewel in the crown of South Philadelphia restaurants. Robert Patton, who owns Clementine’s Bistro (which I reviewed last week) has added outdoor seating. RoseLena’s, the Victorian gem two doors down, provides tables with umbrellas to shade diners from the summer sun. I particularly like its desserts and coffee after taking a stroll down the avenue.
Chef Lynn Rinaldi opened Paradiso two-and-a-half years ago and I named it one of the best new restaurants of 2004. Rinaldi’s rabbit ragu is second to none and her cucina is what would be found in many fine eateries in Italy.
Chef Sheri Waide heads Southwark in Queen Village, which also opened in fall ’04. Using local ingredients in a seasonal menu, Waide’s cuisine is original and bursting with flavor. The garden is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner.
Dining on a ship is not confined to ocean liners on their way to tropical islands. The casual feel of the deck aboard the Moshulu works nicely with its menu of grilled items and fresh salads. It is a different atmosphere than that found in the indoor rooms, which are formal with a more upscale menu.
City dining has changed since chef Stein started a revolution. On chilly evenings, bring a shawl or sweater, but remember many restaurants have outdoor Parisian heat lamps.
As summer once again rolls into the city, outdoor dining has never been more fun.
With spots like RoseLena’s, Clementine’s Bistro and Paradiso, Passyunk Avenue is ideal for summer outdoor dining.
