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Several weeks ago, my friend Eddie asked me if I had been to Opa, a Greek restaurant which opened on Sansom Street about six weeks ago. He enjoyed the food very much. I made a mental note and quickly forgot about it.
Opa is a charming space with a central bar, very soft lighting, comfortable tables, linen napkins, which I would use to wipe my best china and crystal, and a knowledgeable staff. A brick wall is painted white and reflects the instantly recognizable buildings of Greece.
My sister Sandy and I settled in, sipped drinks and discussed the menu.
“No octopus,” she declared.
Octopus is a cornerstone of Greek restaurants. Since I still believe Dmitri’s is the finest in town, I told her I had to try it. We decided on a sample of safe dishes from the mezedes and an entrée that Sandy never tasted, but I have.
Grilled octopus ($12) was a good-sized portion. It was braised for four hours, according to the menu description, then grilled. I would have liked a bit more char on the mollusk but it was tender and tasty. A mound of chickpeas, cooked with spices and chili oil, was instantly devoured. Sandy hesitated to try them.
“You love chickpeas,” I said. “What’s the matter?”
I then realized since they shared a plate with the octopus, she waffled a bit. Finally she took one on her fork, pronounced it delicious and helped me finish them.
Saganaki ($7), the famous Greek flaming-cheese dish, brought me back to the first time I tasted it while a student at UCLA. When classes ended, I flew to San Francisco and headed for the Minerva Café. The waiter brought a plate of cheese to our table, poured liquor on it, flambéed it and yelled “opa.” A group of men began a circle dance while tossing plates on the floor.
Although our waiter did not flambé the cheese, Sandy’s eyes widened as she sliced some and spread it on a triangle of warm pita bread. The kasseri, traditionally made in Greece with either sheep’s or goat’s milk, was seared and still warm when it arrived at the table. We polished it off.
The roasted beet salad ($9) was prepared with slices of red and golden beets, fragrant, slightly crisp fennel, bits of tangy goat cheese and spicy baby arugula tossed in a light vinaigrette redolent with lemon. All it required was a shake of salt and pepper. Marrying fennel with beets and the other ingredients was a fine idea because of the contrasts of tastes and textures.
Greek meatballs are traditionally prepared with lamb, which is the meat of choice in Greece. I was surprised to see the keftedes ($11) were made with veal. Five small meatballs arrived in a small, round cast iron pot. The veal was mixed with minced fresh herbs, but I found the meatballs too dry. Lamb would have been my choice although I adored the homemade chunky tomato sauce. I enjoyed every spoonful.
Our server helped us select a red wine from the mostly Greek wine list. He knew quite a lot about them and offered us a sip of a few before agreeing on a 2009 Porto Carras Limnio from Cotes de Meliton, Greece ($10). It was filled with fruit and I instantly knew it would pair well with the pastitsio ($12).
I have tried many versions of this Greek lasagna. More often than not, it was dreadful. Opa’s version hit the mark. It was prepared with homemade semolina pasta which was cut into thin penne-like pieces, layered with ground sirloin and topped with béchamel. Although I would have preferred the pastitsio made with minced lamb, the minced sirloin was just fine and nicely seasoned. It arrived in a small cast-iron pot so it remained piping hot until we finished it.
Thirteenth Street off Sansom has become a dining destination for so many of us. Opa joins Sampan, Barbuzzo, Lolita, Bindi and Zavona where it is in good company.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Opa. SPR
Opa
1311 Sansom Street
215-545-0170
www.opaphiladelphia.com
47854354
47854924
