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Italy’s diverse land and seascapes determine the ingredients that turn up in this country’s classic cucina. Livorno and Milan immediately come to mind when I think of traditional dishes from this area, which have unique sauces and enhancements.
The Italians say "alla" to describe a dish’s style. Fish prepared "alla Livornese," for example, is made with a sauce of tomatoes, onions, capers, garlic and basil, and can be prepared in a matter of minutes.
Veal cutlet alla Milanese is another personal favorite. Unfortunately, many Italian restaurants do not prepare or cook it properly. Sometimes, the quality of the veal is iffy, overcooked or topped with dressing-soaked lettuce.
Pasta alla Amatriciana is another dish made with simple, fresh ingredients, including pancetta – the tasty, cured pork belly that is widely available. Bucatini is the traditional pasta used, but any type is fine.
I will never forget the first time I ate lobster fra diavolo, meaning "caught up with the devil." I was about 5 or 6 years old at Luigi’s, a now-shuttered Atlantic City restaurant. This hot peppery sauce can be used on any shellfish; Steamed littleneck clams and mussels are excellent choices.
Swordfish alla Livornese
Ingredients:
4 (6-ounce) swordfish steaks, each about 1-inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Olive oil, for brushing, plus for coating the bottom of a skillet
1 large onion, chopped
4 fat cloves of garlic, sliced
4 ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 1 (28-ounce) can of plum tomatoes
4 tablespoons of capers, rinsed and drained
Handful of fresh basil leaves, torn
Directions:
Sprinkle the swordfish with the salt and pepper. Brush with the oil and grill for about three minutes on each side. Place on a platter and cover with foil.
Heat more oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the onion and saut� for about three to five minutes. Add the garlic and saut� three more minutes. Add the tomatoes and raise the heat to high. If the tomatoes are canned, use a wooden spoon to break them up in the skillet. Cook for about 15 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and add the capers and basil.
Divide the sauce among four plates. Top with the grilled swordfish.
Serves four.
Note from Phyllis: Italian women tear basil into a pot or dish. It also can be snipped by rolling the leaves up in a chiffonade, which looks like a cigar, and sliced.
Veal Cutlets alla Milanese
Ingredients
4 (6-ounce) veal cutlets, pounded thin
1 egg, beaten
Fine dry breadcrumbs, for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Olive oil, for coating the bottom of a skillet
1 (8-ounce) bag of baby arugula leaves
Shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano
Directions:
Dry the veal with paper towels. Dip into the egg and then the breadcrumbs. Place on a plate and sprinkle with the salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the cutlets and saut� for about three minutes on each side.
Place on four plates. Top with the baby arugula leaves and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Serves four.
Note from Phyllis: I use a vegetable peeler to shave the cheese.
Bucatini alla Amatriciana
Ingredients:
1 pound of bucatini, cooked according to the package directions
6 tablespoons of olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
4 ripe tomatoes, diced
1/2 pound of pancetta, julienned
Sprinkling of hot pepper flakes
Grated Parmesan
Directions:
While the pasta cooks, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the onion and saut� for about three to five minutes. Add the tomatoes and raise the heat to high. Cook for about 15 minutes. Lower to medium and add the pancetta and hot pepper flakes.
Drain the pasta, reserving about 1 cup of hot water, and return to the pot. Pour the sauce over the pasta and add the reserved water. Stir well.
Pass the Parmesan around the table.
Serves four.
Mussels fra Diavolo
Ingredients:
2 pounds of farm-raised mussels, rinsed
1 cup of water
Olive oil, to coat the bottom of a skillet
6 fat cloves of garlic, sliced
2 (28-ounce) cans of plum tomatoes
Hot pepper flakes, to taste
Sprinkling of dried oregano
Chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, for garnish
Directions:
Discard the mussels with broken shells. Place the good ones in a 4-quart pot with the water. Bring to a boil. Cover and cook for about five to 10 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice. The mussels are done when the shells open. Keep them in the pot.
Heat the oil over medium in a deep skillet. Add the garlic and saut� for a few minutes. Do not burn. Add the tomatoes, breaking them apart with your hands. Use a spoon to blend with the garlic. Raise the heat to high and cook for about 15 minutes. Add the hot pepper flakes and oregano and blend well.
Pour the sauce over the mussels and blend with a wooden spoon.
Divide among four warm bowls. Top with the parsley.
Serves four.
