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The Reading Terminal Market is a national treasure like Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, The Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, Pennsylvania Ballet and the Philadelphia Orchestra. This unique marketplace, which opened in 1893, is a cornucopia of diverse merchants.
I have been a regular shopper since 1984. I have watched it grow and expand tempting me with all sorts of goodies. Many merchants have become friends. I rely on them for the finest and freshest ingredients from Pennsylvania and New Jersey. At lunchtime, I slide onto a stool at Sang Kee for a bowl of wonton noodle soup or head to the Down Home Diner for scrambled eggs and bacon or a grilled cheese.
Now, dear readers, I am pleased to report that Jimmie and Vinnie Iovine, who own Iovine’s Produce in the Market, have teamed up with chef Bobby Fisher and opened Molly Malloy’s, a fully-licensed gastro pub which is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
My sister Sandy and lunched at Molly Malloy’s on two occasions. It is a large open space with comfortable tables and chairs, an open kitchen, a large bar and several televisions tuned to the sports stations. Molly Malloy’s was bustling with hungry shoppers and business people on both our visits.
Chopped salad ($7.41) was more like a deconstructed Cobb salad brimming with lettuce, red ripe tomatoes, slices of cool English cucumber, crisp smoky bacon and crumbles of Gorgonzola lightly dressed in a homemade creamy Lamaze dressing. We spooned the salad on individual plates and marveled how fresh tasting it was. I asked our waiter for more dressing on the side because Fisher knows not to overdress the ingredients.
Unfortunately for me, Molly Malloy’s ran out of chicken potpie.
“May I suggest the short-rib pies ($6.02),” our waiter said. “Two come with the order.”
Am I glad I took his suggestion. Let me put it this way: If a chef fills homemade flaky savory pastry with anything I will thank him or her profusely. I am still dreaming of this dish. The short ribs were braised in Guinness with onions that Fisher caramelized and seasoned. They looked like oval turnovers, somewhat akin to an empanada. The entire dish was a triumph of flavors and textures. He drizzled a bit of braising stock, which was reduced perfectly, on top. I cleaned my plate.
Sandy ate her open-faced tuna salad sandwich ($5.56) with a knife and fork. I felt the tuna needed more mayonnaise, but Sandy enjoyed it. She ordered it plain with lettuce although onions and tomatoes are on offer.
Our next visit was as fine as the first. A deep bowl of piping hot leek and potato soup ($3.70) immediately warmed me up. Fisher uses Yukon Gold potatoes, which account for its light gold color. The stock was obviously homemade, it imparted a richness in flavor that you do not find in packaged stocks. The soup was pureed and topped with bits of crisp bacon. A touch of cream added richness to the soup. With this in life, nothing is awry.
Caesar salad ($6.48) has become so ubiquitous it is almost a caricature. But I was interested to see how Fisher prepared it. A Mount Etna of crisp hearts of romaine were tossed in a homemade dressing so lightly, I asked for more. The right touch of seasoning and grated cheese along with crisp buttery in-house-made croutons made this salad one of the finest in the city.
Oh I so love fish and chips. I’ve eaten this pub staple all over England, America and Philadelphia. I don’t think anyone can match Fisher’s version ($11.11) He takes immaculately fresh cod, coats it in beer batter and fries it to a crisp golden brown. He even makes his own tartar sauce which I gobbled up with my lunch. The fries were uncommonly good. Not a bit of grease.
Service was perfect on both our visits. The Iovines and Fisher have brought together a splendid staff. Molly Malloy’s is another fine reason for you to visit The Reading Terminal Market.
Three tips of the toque to Molly Malloy’s. SPR
Molly Malloy’s
1136 Arch St.
267-525-1001
mollymalloysphilly.com
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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