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In restaurant lingo, there is such a thing as a good luck location. The corner of Eighth and Christian streets is one of these places, as it has brought prosperity for a long time.
Thirty years ago, the Tran family opened Vin Hoa, one of the city’s first Vietnamese eateries. A number of years later the corner spot became Nam Phuong, another fine Vietnamese restaurant, which was — and still is — so successful the owners moved to larger quarters.
Enter Christian Perez, who opened Molcajete Mixto two weeks ago. I wondered whether I should have waited before reviewing Molcajete, but I’m glad I didn’t.
Since Molcajete is a BYOB, we brought a rich Spanish red and a crisp Torontes from Argentina and settled in. Pale, beige linen and matching napkins set off the rich, polished wooden floors and light-colored walls. A single votive provided light to our table.
Perez serves Latin-influenced international cuisine with a strong nod to Mexico. Spain and New World ingredients play a heavy role in this highly flavored, regional cuisine.
There were a number of dishes, which gave me "big eyes" (always a problem). I wanted to try everything because the descriptions made the food sound so tasty.
A server brought us a basket of warm, crisp tortilla chips, probably homemade. They tasted fresh and were not over-salted. Ramekins filled with fresh-tasting "pico de gallo," fragrant chopped cilantro and a smooth version of spicy guacamole accompanied the chips.
"Quesadillas de huitlacoche" ($9) consisted of three plump homemade corn masa empanadas filled with a blend of fresh sweet white kernels, mushrooms, onions and melted cheese. The vegetables were chopped to an almost-smooth texture and imparted a rich flavor we all liked. The pastry was flaky, but a little greasy. A bit of salad also sat on the plate.
"Ensalada de Nopales" ($8) was a treat for the eyes, as well as the taste buds. The star was the fresh cactus paddle, a vegetable similar in taste and texture to tender asparagus. The chef created a mound of immaculately fresh mixed greens with wedges of avocado and strips of aged cotija, an out-of-this-world cheese similar to Italian Fontina that Perez said could be found in any fine cheese shop. The salad, which could easily serve two, was topped with a lemony vinaigrette.
"Sopa Azteca" ($7) featured fresh red ripe tomatoes, another New World ingredient, which were pulverized and blended with a broth. Sliced roasted chicken breast, crisp tortilla strips, bits of avocado and a dollop of sweet light cream enhanced the stock beautifully. This was obviously made from scratch. The addition of a hot chili pepper gave it a marvelous kick.
After we finished the appetizers, a waiter changed our silver and filled our water glasses. If the entrees were as fine as our starters, I knew we would be in for a delicious evening.
Mom ordered "enchiladas suizas" ($13), Edward opted for "molcajete mixto" ($21) and I took a trip to sunny Spain with "paella a la valenciana" ($22). All three were tasty winners.
The enchiladas were soft corn tortillas filled with chicken and topped with cheese, which melted into a spicy tomatillo sauce, imparting an unusual contrast of flavors. Saffron rice and refried beans came with the dish.
We can thank Mexican and South American restaurants for making grilled skirt steak so popular lately. Edward’s dinner was served in a piping hot molcajete — a vessel made from lava rock that is used in Mexican cooking, especially guacamole, and sometimes doubles as a serving dish. Strips of rare tender beef and grilled chicken were draped around, nestled between strips of cacti. A pool of tomatillo sauce and ancho chile salsa sat in the center for easy dipping. Refried beans came on a side plate.
As I glanced at my dinner, I realized paella is a cousin to Louisiana’s jambalaya and this was the finest I ever ate in a restaurant. Bits of carrot, celery, onion and garlic were saut�ed in oil before rice and liquid were added to the pot. Shrimp, mussels, clams, whole baby squid about the size of a quarter, circles of spicy chorizo and a chicken leg made the dish perfect. Strands of saffron clung to the rice and mussel shells; it is the most expensive spice in the world and a must when making paella. My dinner was so large, I toted half of it home.
The menu also lists beef done with chimichurri sauce, the Argentine spicy parsley condiment, and a selection of dishes made with mole, the rich chocolate cocoa sauce that is 100 percent Mexican.
A server brought us a big glass bowl filled with melon, strawberries, pineapple and grapes sitting on ice. This cleansed our palates for flan ($5), a dense and delicious wedge of creamy custard pie topped with a pretty dollop of whipped cream and laced with cinnamon.
Perez has a winner here and I think the lucky streak on the corner of Eighth and Christian will continue for a long time.
Three tips of the toque to Molcajete Mixto.
Molcajete Mixto
744 Christian St.
215-413-0171
Visa and MasterCard accepted
