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Choucroute garnie is one of the great dishes of the world. Choucroute — French for sauerkraut — is painstakingly prepared with shredded cabbage, which is packed in brine and turned into sauerkraut; diced onions cooked in goose, duck or chicken fat, chicken stock, dry white wine, juniper berries and herbs, cuts of pork; steamed potatoes; and a variety of sausages. Steaming hot choucroute garnie is now served at McCrossen’s Tavern.
My family and I have dined at McCrossen’s for many years. We loved the Caesar salads and burgers, homemade soups and linguine with clams. But chef Todd Wentz has totally revamped the menu bringing a breath of fresh French culinary air to Fairmount at ridiculously moderate prices.
McCrossen’s is housed in a brick townhouse built in 1852. Sandy, Edward and I were lucky to snare three seats at the bar since the dining room was filled to capacity. We received a basket of warm French bread and soft butter. We were hungry for several dishes we have not recently seen on restaurant menus.
Wines by the glass are carefully selected from around the world. A knowledgeable woman helped me to decide a glass of Grüner Veltliner ($8) from Austria was a perfect marriage with choucroute. Sandy liked the oaky chardonnay ($9) while Edward sipped a Vaucluse Cote du Rhone ($8).
Brandade ($8) is a marvel of whipped salt cod, olive oil, garlic, milk and cream. This Provence classic, which I have not seen on a menu in eons, arrived in an individual black cast-iron oval and came with toasted buttery French bread. It’s a light and tasty way to whet the appetite. The dish was a first for Sandy who truly enjoyed it.
The pork belly ($8) was another winning dish. It is becoming ubiquitous these days, but Wentz prepared it perfectly. It was so tender that it melted in our mouths.
Moving on to the bone marrow, fans of “Top Chef” will recall Richard Blaise’s award-winning roasted bone marrow entrée that wowed the judges. I love bone marrow. I love the silken center on veal shanks and the prize when I eat osso bucco, so I wanted to see how Wentz served it. The dish ($9) looked like a 12-inch pre-historic bone filled with juicy, silky and seasoned marrow that I dug out with my fork. Heavens it was so good I could have downed another.
Sandy’s sense of culinary adventure is strengthening with each new dish. Her pan-roasted striped bass with roasted Brussels sprouts ($19) was a fine introduction to a different fin fish. Her fin fish repertoire previously had consisted of broiled flounder and roasted black cod.
I was truly astonished when I saw the big copper pot of choucroute garnie ($19). It was big enough for two. Wentz added tender pork belly; thick, spicy bratwurst and weisswurst; and steamed potatoes to the simmering wine-enhanced broth. Juniper berries floated throughout, giving the dish its unique flavor. The potatoes and sauerkraut, thoroughly rinsed of its brine, retained a bit of bite. I make choucroute at home and confess Wentz’s is a masterpiece of subtle flavors and textures.
Duck confit ($18) is another winter French favorite. Wentz cooks the duck in its own fat, roasts it, shreds it into tender juicy strips and serves it over a large portion of lightly sauced al dente orecchiette. I’ve tasted duck ragu on ribbon pasta but since the duck was shredded, it nestled comfortably into the little ears providing an immediate burst of flavor. Pasta and duck united beautifully in this entrée.
I still cannot get over the bill of fare Wentz has brought to this neighborhood tavern. It hits the high French culinary mark in offering stick-to-your-ribs peasant dishes filled with flavor, yet simply prepared with the finest ingredients Wentz purchases for McCrossen’s.
The only negative was the extremely loud music on the sound system.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to McCrossen’s Tavern. SPR
McCrossen’s Tavern
529 N. 20th St.
215-854-0923
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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