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After weeks of being served restaurant fare that ran from mediocre to inedible, it was a pleasure to happen upon Kanella, a two month-old Greek/Cypriot BYOB at the corner of 10th and Spruce streets.
I have always enjoyed Greek food, but there are just a few spots that serve authentic items. Effie’s at Pine and South Quince streets is one. Now I can add Kanella to the list.
Kanella is Greek for "cinnamon," a spice that turns up in any number of Greek dishes. The chef/owner is Konstantinos Pitsillides, who has meticulously planned a menu that will make your taste buds soar.
Mom, Edward and I arrived at about 6:30 p.m. and the place was filled with happy patrons. It appears people have discovered this gem even though there has been little press. We were shown to a comfortable table and I sat on a banquette filled with white fluffy pillows. The walls are white, the lighting perfect and the acoustics just right as we were able to enjoy conversation with our meal. Our waiter opened our wine and told us the fish of the day, a black bass from the Mediterranean.
We began our culinary trip to Greece with a lightly breaded braised rabbit tenderloin with fresh artichoke salad ($9). I don’t know why rabbit rarely appears on menus. The meat is juicy and tender. The addition of herbs and spices brought out a succulent flavor. The artichokes were whole baby beauties with the stems that were tender and cooked just right.
Next up was pan-fried meatballs with tzatziki and salad dusted with herbs ($8). The beef was redolent with a touch of cinnamon. We liked that the meatballs’ outsides were a bit crunchy, the result of perfect pan-searing. Serving them with a small salad and a cool pool of tzatziki — a tangy sauce made with yogurt, chopped cucumbers, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and minced herbs — was inspiring. The combination of hot beef and the cool imported-from-Greece yogurt fared well on the palate.
Our waiter told us Pitsillides was not happy with the quality of the sardines ($7) that day so he substituted sepia, also known as cuttlefish, from the Mediterranean for the sardines. Grilled fish is a Greek specialty and we did not mind the switch. They were superb, grilled with olive oil and lemon juice and served with a piquant pickled caper leaf salad. Again, the contrast of tastes and textures was on the mark.
A salad of beets with thick Greek yogurt and chopped scallions ($7) was so tasty I told Edward I was going to make it at home. The beets were roasted, cooled and cut into cubes. They were rolled in the yogurt and chilled. The use of scallions added a flavorful perk, as beets can be a bit bland.
From the entr�es, we selected quail ($20) and dorado ($27), the grilled whole fish of the day. Both were superb. At Kanella, the fowl was pan-fried and served with baby eggplant, leafy greens and roasted potatoes. They were juicy and meaty, paired with not-at-all-bitter eggplant, saut�ed greens and the potatoes.
Dorado is a white fish that needs just a touch of olive oil, lemon juice and minced fresh herbs before it is grilled on the bone and served. A waiter came by to fillet it for us. He wielded the knife with the skill of a surgeon. I had fun picking on the sweet bones and the cheeks even though the fish was large enough to share.
Desserts are homemade, including the ice cream. We shared a slice of almond-and-date tart with rich vanilla ice cream ($7) that was so uncommonly good, I wondered if I could place an order for a whole pie.
Portions here are most generous, which is beginning to be a rare find these dollar-conscious days. Service was first-rate. Dominic, our waiter, told us he was born and raised in San Francisco and lives in South Philly. Several other waiters kept the pace of our meal flowing with ease. I noticed Kanella’s patrons were of various ages and a number seemed to already be regulars.
Sometimes when I think of Greek food, the mushy steam table stuff, cooked-to-dust lamb and canned vegetables come to mind. The dishes at Kanella are as authentic as those you would savor in Greece or Cyprus. Luckily, we don’t have to book a flight or a Mediterranean cruise.
Kanella is one of the best new restaurants this year.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Kanella.
Kanella
Corner of 10th and Spruce streets
215-922-1773
Credit cards accepted
