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Last week, The New York Times ran an article about the increase in the number of wine bars in Manhattan. The article pointed out, more often than not, the food served in wine bars enhanced the wine and vice versa.
We do not have as many wine bars here, but I have noticed a jump in beer bars that offer a limited food menu or pay little attention to the quality of the ingredients used in the dishes that are served with the drink list that reads like "War and Peace."
Jose Pistola’s, a beer bar that opened in August on South 13th Street, falls somewhere in between. Sure there is a large list of bottled beers, 100 to be exact, and 12 on tap. The brews come from around the world, but the food is Mexican because owner Joe Gunn (Jose Pistola, get it?) told cousin Carl and me he first thought of opening a burrito shack on South Street before turning to the current venture.
We arrived at the location, which housed Copa Too for many years, during the 5 to 7 p.m. happy hour during which there is a dollar off all beers on tap. Taking seats at the bar, we chatted with Gunn though he did not know who I was. I asked him for recommendations and he gave us samples before we ordered, which is a hospitable practice.
Since I like Belgian wheat beers that are light and crisp, I sipped a glass of Blanche de Bruxelle’s ($5.50) that had a grapefruit-like flavor I enjoyed. Carl opted for Jerer Pilsner ($7), which was a bit richer but just as tasty.
We began dinner with a huge platter of homemade chips with pico de gallo, salsa verde and guacamole. This has to be the best and biggest nosh in town for just six bucks. Gunn told us they make the chips every few hours. They were warm, crisp, totally free of grease and tossed in Mexican sea salt. The dips are homemade, as well, and it shows. The pico had a zip to it, while the salsa verde was light and creamy. The guacamole must be crushed by hand since you could actually taste the small bits of red onion and tomato. The dips were bursting with fresh flavor. We had to stop munching to save room.
Next up was a big steaming bowl of spicy chicken and rice soup ($6). It was tomato-based and brimming with shredded chicken breast, rice, tiny kernels of yellow corn, minced onions and the right touch of chili peppers. I liked the kick because it was not so hot and spicy that I could not enjoy it. A handful of homemade chips were placed on the saucer.
I never ate a Mexican take on Caesar salad even though Italian chef Caesar Cardini invented it in 1924 when he presented it at his Tijuana restaurant. The Caesar salad ($7) consisted of a large plate filled with cool romaine (some a bit limp), crispy tortilla strips, tiny kernels of white corn and cojito cheese tossed in a Caesar dressing with a touch of chipotle peppers.
We were filling up, but I wanted to sample the beef tacos ($5). Two to an order, they are prepared with fresh corn tortillas warmed up a bit and filled with shredded beef with sweet Spanish onion and cilantro. Some pico de gallo was placed in a small metal cup. The meat was flavorful and tender, the type of shredded beef you would find in a Cuban restaurant.
With our dinner we selected a glass of Saint Bernardus ($7) — a dark rich beer. I found it tasted better with food than on its own.
After the check, I introduced myself to Gunn because I wanted to know why a married 33-year-old with a baby due in July would open a beer bar.
"I have a degree in business and was a stockbroker but didn’t like it," he said. "I was going to go for an M.B.A., but my brother-in-law, who holds a degree in business from Columbia, talked me out of it. I found this location and he advised me. I’ve worked in restaurants and I knew I wanted to own something."
Since the late ’90s, when Belgian beer and microbrews started to take hold, Gunn knew there were people in this city who loved beer as much as serious wine drinkers loved wine. Their numbers are increasing.
During our meal, the sound system played everything from the B-52s to The Beatles to Elton John. Thank goodness there was no loud blasting noise to hinder conversation.
Gunn is still developing his menu. He wants to add gazpacho when the weather warms up and other items to fill it out.
"You know," Carl said as we left, "that was an unexpected pleasure."
Two tips of the toque to Jose Pistola’s.
Jose Pistola’s
263 S. 15th St.
215-545-4101
