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As the Beijing Olympics come to a close, I felt compelled to visit Chinatown and enjoy a meal that would be the next best thing to dining in China. A large red-and-yellow banner flies across 10th and Race streets proclaiming the merchants’ wishes for success in the Summer Games while small American and Olympic flags hang from the banner.
I never reviewed Jade Harbor, but have always enjoyed its cuisine. Crispy vegetarian spring rolls, hot and sour soup (both $2.50), shredded pork in hot garlic sauce ($7.95), pan-fried noodles ($8.95) and many others never disappoint.
Since I didn’t want to miss any Olympic coverage, I set out early. The restaurant seats about 40, but you won’t feel cramped. Tables are covered in white linen with red (the lucky color) napkins. A waiter brought me a pot of tea, which I sipped as I perused the menu. Although I’ve ordered a number of dishes in the past, including those mentioned above, I wanted to try new ones.
A majority of patrons at Jade Harbor were speaking Mandarin and I tried to glimpse the dishes they were ordering. My waiter also was helpful in answering my questions.
I sampled the steamed shrimp dumplings in the past, but this time I ordered the shrimp shumai (both $3.95). Four plump, round dumplings sat in a round metal steamer, the type used for dim sum. The wrappers were so thin you could read a newspaper through them. The filling consisted of minced shrimp and vegetables, flavored just right. I plucked a shumai with my chopstick, dipped it into the soy/garlic sauce and quickly emptied the steamer.
I am an odd culinary creature as I can easily tuck into a bowl of steaming hot soup on a sultry summer evening. Seeking something new, my waiter’s description of lake beef soup ($5.25) made my mouth water. This was a big bowl, not a small cup, of homemade broth brimming with bits of minced beef, sliced scallions and chopped coriander. The soup was finished with a beaten egg that was drizzled into the steaming liquid. It looked like egg drop soup but the coriander and other ingredients made it a tasty meal. It was so hot, so freshly prepared, I had to wait a few minutes before digging in.
I have always enjoyed the shrimp dishes at Jade Harbor, but again I sought something new.
"The striped bass is very good," my waiter advised. "You can have it steamed or pan-fried."
Whole fish on the bone never deters me and I can never understand why so many Americans fear it; the bones add flavor.
Steamed whole striped bass ($19.95) was large enough for two. It sat in a pool of light soy sauce and was topped with sliced scallions, slivers of garlic and sprigs of coriander. The combination of flavors was dazzling. I simply broke the fish apart with my chopsticks, spooned the sauce over the striped bass and savored every bite. Even the fish cheeks were succulent. A bowl of steamed jasmine rice came with the entr�e. The aroma, texture and flavor of it enhanced the delicacy of the fish.
Wedges of juicy orange and a fortune cookie ended my trip to China.
Service was first-rate. The room was filled yet patrons were cared for with attention. Although each dish was made to order, I didn’t wait long between courses.
Jade Harbor and many restaurants in Chinatown are the perfect spot during these recession days when everyone is watching their dollars. The food is fresh, tasty and inexpensive. Portions are large, so if you don’t finish your meal, the leftovers can be packed to go.
Three tips of the toque to Jade Harbor.
Jade Harbor
942 Race St.
215-928-0451
Credit cards accepted
