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The last time I reviewed a restaurant in Fairmount was during the dog days of summer. I recently heard of a new Mexican BYOB near the Art Museum. Its name is Isabel BYOB. I suggest booking a table right away because when word gets out, this charming neighborhood restaurant will be packed. My sister Sandy, Edward and I enjoyed a first-rate meal in a relaxed atmosphere.
Isabel is located on the ground floor of 2601, a condominium built shortly after the end of World War II. We were seated near a picture window and immediately took a liking to the bare-wood tables and dish towel-type napkins. We brought a red and a white wine. The white went into an ice bucket and our servers brought us glasses for each wine.
A generous portion of homemade tortilla chips arrived with a slightly spicy salsa, which was so good, Sandy warned me if I ate too many I would not have room for dinner. She had never eaten authentic Mexican food. She is picky, but will try a few new dishes from time to time. She never ate jicama so we ordered the house salad ($8) and the quinoa and rock shrimp salad ($9).Both were tops with us.
The house salad consisted of fresh, spicy arugula, sticks of jicama, toasted almonds with Humboldt Fog goat cheese tossed in a white balsamic vinaigrette laced with tequila. The contrast of colors, tastes and textures was glorious. I liked the use of toasted almonds in place of walnuts and pecans, which turn up in so many restaurant salads.
Edward first tasted quinoa when I bought a box and fixed it at home. He immediately liked it. This salad also contained black beans, fresh corn and baby greens tossed in a sherry vinaigrette. The shrimp imparted a slightly sweet taste that brought out the contrasting flavors and textures of black beans and corn. Much care and thought went into the preparation of both salads.
Next up were empanadas. Sandy never tried them but announced she would give them a try after she saw them prepared on one of Gordon Ramsey’s television programs.
We ordered the beef ($7) and the shrimp and crab ($8). Sandy dove in and the love affair began. The beef was nicely seasoned and the mix of crab and shrimp was an inspired choice. The pastry was melt-in-your-mouth flakey and not a bit greasy.
Tacos form the backbone of many Mexican restaurants. We had to try Isabel’s pork carnitas ($16) because they are my favorite. They were featured on an episode of “Top Chef Washington” and ever since then, I have been devouring pork carnitas. I knew Sandy would not try them because she is weird about pork. She will eat bacon and took a bite of pork belly on one occasion. She missed a flavor explosion in the mouth.
Edward and I enjoyed filling the soft, warm corn tortillas with shredded, seasoned pork and topping them with house-made pico de gallo, crema and shredded romaine. I love the mix of warm and cool and the crema was about the finest I’ve tried anywhere.
Scallops always are safe because Sandy will eat them. Isabel’s version ($21) was simply prepared. They were seared and served with a fresh mango salsa. I thought the scallops needed a bit more seasoning but this is a matter of personal taste.
Desserts were straightforward and ended our meal with a slightly sweet perfection. A deep, rich, bittersweet chocolate pudding ($6) was so outrageously delicious, we were almost fighting over who would get the last spoonful. Some whipped cream came with it. The key lime pie ($6) took me straight back to Florida. The contrast of sweet and acid hit the mark.
Call ahead to find whether the restaurant’s credit-card machine is up and running. It was cash only when we visited. Isabel BYOB was packed with families and couples on the night we dined. The ambience was as fine as the Mexican fare served up at this brand new spot.
Three tips of the toque to Isabel BYOB. SPR
Isabel BYOB
2601 Pennsylvania Ave.
215-475-8088
http://isabelbyob.com
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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