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Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights, begins Tuesday at sundown. It is a relatively minor holiday which commemorates the rededication of the temple by the Maccabees after Judah Maccabee, known as “The Hammer,” and his band of brothers defeated the Syrians.
The eight-day festival is filled with good food, games — especially spin the dreidel — and song. Fried foods take pride of place as the holiday recalls the miracle of the oil. The eternal light, which hung over the ark, had enough oil for one night. But, a miracle occurred and the lamp burned bright for eight nights. It is customary to place the menorah in a window so the bright flickering lights play off the dark of winter. I pull out the one from my childhood, give it a good polish and take a candle inventory.
If you are still searching for gifts, Claudia Roden is one of the world’s finest culinary historians. Her new book, “The Food of Spain,” is one I urge you to purchase for yourself and all of the serious cooks on your list. Roden is a Sephardic Jew and the author of “The Book of Jewish Food.” It is the finest book on Jewish cuisine ever published on this subject and won the prestigious James Beard Award for Cookbook of the Year.
Spain’s cuisine has been popular ever since chef Ferran Adria, the father of molecular gastronomy and inventor of culinary foam, closed El Bulli, his famed restaurant in Spain. Until last summer, scores of people, especially chefs, made the pilgrimage to see the master and dine on his creations. “This excellent book reflects all of Spain’s richness,” he wrote.
You will learn much about the history, culture and cuisines of the country’s regions. The recipes are easy to follow and there are few exotic ingredients. Roden offers a list of companies which specialize in Spanish ingredients and products.
“The Food of Spain” is more than 600 pages and is filled with eye-candy, full-color photographs. Roden leads you by the hand and eye throughout her travels. Jewish culinary influence was prevalent in Spain before 1492 but many dishes still reflect the Judaic influence. I’ve never been to Spain but I’m ready to book a flight straight away.
Here are recipes for Hanukkah from “The Food of Spain” by Claudia Roden.
Eggplant Fritters with Honey
Ingredients:
2 eggplants, (about 1.25 pounds), peeled and cut into one-third-inch slices
About 2 cups whole milk, to soak the eggplant slices
Flour for dredging
Salt, to taste
Olive or sunflower oil for deep-frying
Orange blossom honey or other aromatic honey, to taste
Directions:
Put the eggplants in a bowl, add enough milk to cover, and put a small plate on top to hold them down. Let them soak for about one hour and drain.
Cover a plate with plenty of the flour mixed with a sprinkling of the salt. Working in batches, turn the slices in this so that they are entirely covered with the flour and shake to remove excess. Deep-fry the eggplant in sizzling but not too hot oil, turning the slices over as soon as the first side is brown. Drain on paper towels.
Serve hot with the honey.
Serves four to five.
Note from Phyllis: Eggplant Fritters are a tasty alternative to potato latkes.
Fried Goat Cheese with Honey
Ingredients:
Fine matzo meal
2 large egg yolks
4 slices of firm goat cheese, about one-third-inch thick
2 tablespoons of olive oil for frying
Orange blossom honey to pass around
Directions:
Put a good layer of the matzo meal on a plate. Lightly beat the yolks in a shallow soup plate.
Working in batches, turn the slices of cheese in the yolks, using your fingers to cover them well, being careful not to break them. Lay the cheese on top of the matzo meal and sprinkle with additional matzo meal so that the slices are well covered.
Fry the slices in medium-hot oil in a non-stick skillet, turning them over very carefully with a spatula, until golden on both sides, for about one minute on each side.
Serve immediately with the honey.
Serves four. SPR
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