Hot pockets

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Since I began this column several months ago, nearly no prices have dropped. (Sorry, I don’t really count five cents per gallon as a break). I’m not too surprised, but I am a bit bummed I’ve to limit my travels to the Shore. So venturing half-way around the world to China to take in tomorrow’s opening ceremonies of the 2008 Summer Olympics is pretty much out of the question.

But there’s no need to be sad about missing out on the Asian flavor. Philadelphia has you covered.

It’s as simple as taking a trip to 15th and Walnut streets where Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine is offering a taste of the Far East in the Dumpling Olympics. Everyday through Sept. 1, diners at lunch or dinner can be treated to a glass of wine, choice of soup or salad and a six-piece dumpling sampler for $19.95 at the restaurant known for blending traditional Chinese fare with classic French technique.

I went solo to take on the special last week, intent on absorbing some peace and quiet. When I arrived at about 5:30 p.m., I found the outdoor tables packed, but the interior calm, with the exception of the bar’s after-work crowd.

Throughout dinner several servers greeted me, each very attentive and gracious. I started off with a red house wine and a bowl of hot-and-sour soup. As someone who’s never craved a spicy dish in my life, I ate the soup very, very slowly and drank much more water than wine.

After I finished, the dumplings came to the table. The presentation was beautiful, with all six pieces plated in a circle around a bed of fresh vegetables, each with sauce drizzled beside it. Every dumpling was distinct in appearance and taste, and I knew which three earned a medal and the three, according to my taste buds, that shouldn’t have even qualified.

I should preface my winners by saying I don’t eat much meat, and especially avoid beef and chicken. That’s not to say I’m a vegetarian, it’s just not a dish I crave. It only makes sense then I couldn’t get enough of the Vegetarian Village (Shanghai cabbage, smoked tofu, button mushrooms, glass noodles and Parmesan), Shrimp and Fuji Apple Race (a medley of the two pan-fried and served with sundried tomato sauce) and Beijing Classic Pot Stickers (pork, Napa cabbage and coriander). After tasting these, I can see why the restaurant has earned two James Beard awards and Robert Mondavi’s Culinary Award of Excellence.

The chicken dumplings — Crispy Curried Flaming Torch with egg wrappers, chicken, curry and shiitake mushroom, and Wild Mushroom Track and Field with portabella and shiitake mushrooms, chicken and Parmesan — were my least favorites. The Bronze Beef and Herb with Chinese celery, rosemary and oregano barely got a bite.

Still, I know taste is far from a constant between people. It’s no different than watching the Olympics, where I enjoy gymnastics and flip the channel when badminton comes on. Everyone has a favorite and coming in at well below $35, at least one in the Dumpling Olympics will no doubt earn your gold.