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The newest addition to Passyunk Avenue’s Restaurant Row is Fond, a French-inspired contemporary American bistro. I believe it’s the best new restaurant of the year.
The ace team of executive chef Lee Styer, pastry chef Jessie Prawlucki and front of the house maven Tory Keomanivong did their how-to-open-a-restaurant homework well. Styer and Prawlucki worked at Le Bec-Fin, while Keomanivong honed his skills at LaCroix at the Rittenhouse.
The site, which housed a number of places including Clementine’s, was redone in what appears to be pale colors. Because the lighting was dim, neither my sister Sandy, Edward nor I could describe it. This was the only fault I found with Fond.
Keomanivong greeted me with a, "Good evening, Madam" and showed us to our table. Linen cloths and napkins, pretty sparkling glassware and china set the stage for a beautifully orchestrated evening.
We brought bottles of Muscadet and Malbac and nibbled homemade bread with sweet creamy butter.
Sweetbreads ($12) are popping up all around town. Styer seared them to crispy perfection and created different toppings that enhanced them visually and in flavor. They included napa cabbage slaw, a tasty, tart pickled red onion, almonds and a slightly rich aioli studded with baby capers. I was in culinary heaven.
Sandy has simple tastes, so I could not wait to hear her reaction to the menu. She opted for the grilled asparagus ($9), as did Edward. The menu states it’s served with a soft-cooked egg, which Sandy nixed. Edward wanted his starter as the chef intended. The vegetable retained a smoky flavor and aroma from the grill and was served with a sunny-side-up egg, shallots roasted in sherry, homemade croutons and imported proscuitto. The dish was prepared simply and rich in fresh flavors.
I instinctively knew my sister would order steak. I talked her out of it and told her to try the scallops ($24) which were a special. Styer pan-seared immaculately fresh, dry day boat scallops and served them with warm, roasted, local heirloom tomatoes, a light citrus Thai chili sauce and Swiss chard. Sweet scallops require acid and Styer had the right touch.
Halibut ($21) has replaced salmon as the fish of choice for chefs. The seafood was pan-seared and placed on a light-as-a-feather bed of homemade ravioli filled with a puree of sweet peas and haricot verts bathed in a lemon Beurre noisette. Keomanivong explained this sauce is a lighter version of Beurre blanc. The layers of flavors and textures were outstanding.
The beef strip loin ($26) arrived rare, juicy and perfectly seasoned. Styer prepared it with charred red onions, tangy imported Gorgonzola and grilled asparagus. He looked to the French for his sauce. I had not enjoyed steak bordelaise, prepared with red wine, brown stock, bone marrow, shallots and herbs, in eons. Styer got it right here.
Prawlucki’s winning desserts capped off our meal. Irish coffee soufflé glace ($9) was a frozen treat redolent with aromatic whiskey caramel sauce and rich shortbread baked with brown sugar. Pavlova ($7), the dish made in honor of the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, looked like the dying swan’s tutu. A beautifully executed crisp meringue found flavor favors with local peaches infused with vanilla and topped with whipped creme fraiche.
Sandy, the chocolate lover, could not resist the dark chocolate tart ($9). It was rich, moist and married well with a custard made with passion fruit, along with a crisp coconut tuille.
Service was outstanding. Keomanivong knows how to pace an evening. His staff watched the tables, filled our water glasses and changed the silver for each course.
Toward the close of dinner, the trio made their way to every table, welcoming their patrons just as a host would welcome guests at their home.
I asked Styer how he gets his inspiration.
"I use local ingredients and keep things simple," he said.
He has the instinct in marrying flavors, which worked well in every dish we tasted.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Fond.
Fond
1617 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-551-5000
