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Several months ago, I received an e-mail from the Fitzwater Café announcing the appointment of Stacey DiPlacido-Guokas as the restaurant’s new executive chef. I interviewed her seven years ago when she worked at Caribou Café on Walnut Street.
Now 35, DiPlacido-Guokas, a South Philadelphia native, graduated from The Restaurant School and is married to Matty Guokas, son of the former Sixers coach Matt Guokas.
Several years ago, DiPlacido-Guokas took a hiatus from the professional kitchen and worked in her husband’s mortgage business. I assume she missed the culinary arts.
My sister Sandy, Edward and I decided to brunch at Fitzwater Café. This charming restaurant was packed at noon. We were told it would be about a 25-minute wait. We were not in a hurry. Sandy and I sat on the bench outside and within 25 minutes, the host showed us to our table.
Fitzwater Café, a BYOB, serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch as well as dinner Wednesday through Saturday.
The front room is kitted out with glass display cases that will lure you into diving into a fruit tart, muffin or other tasty treats. The host showed us to a comfortable table for four in the back room.
Walls are painted in a creamy yellow enhanced by colorful posters. There’s a tin ceiling with fans to keep us happy during the hot and humid days. I especially liked the rattan chairs which reminded me of those you find in European cafés.
At brunch, breakfast or lunch can be ordered. Mugs of Lacas coffee ($1.75) were brought to us. I found it a bit weak. Our server George also brought us water.
I ordered an omelet prepared with Swiss cheese and ham ($8.50). Although it was folded and puffed, it was a tad overcooked. The short order cook stuffed the cheese in such a way it melted perfectly. Tiny cubes of ham were not at all salty. Three strips of bacon ($2.50) enhanced my brunch.
I liked the simple sauté of cubed potatoes which came with the omelet. All they required was a dash of salt and pepper. In place of toast, I asked George for a warm croissant ($2.75). Although it was ordinary and lacked the buttery layers you find in an authentic French croissant, I slathered on softened butter and ate it all up.
Sandy loves pancakes. Fitzwater Café offers the option of a short ($4) or large stack ($6.50). She went for the smaller version. Two large, piping hot buttermilk pancakes served as the base for the butter that melted immediately. Sandy also ordered bacon and finished her brunch with a smile.
Edward decided on a lunch item. He ordered the tuna salad BLT ($9.50) which included slices of rich, ripe avocado and crisp bacon. There may not be a choice of bread at Fitzwater Café since our server did not ask which type Edward wanted. It was prepared with two small slices of seven-grain wheat bread. The tuna was perfectly blended with the right touch of mayonnaise. There is nothing worse than tuna with so much mayonnaise, it masks the flavor. It came with a choice of potatoes or a small garden salad. Edward opted for potatoes.
As we ate, I noticed the professionalism of the staff. They watched the tables, filled our coffee mugs and left us to our conversation. This is a rare find.
I did not see Di-Placido-Goukas in the kitchen. Sunday is usually the chef’s day off. I glanced at her Italian-American-inspired dinner menu and immediately knew we had to try dinner.
All Fitzwater Café needs is a bit of tweaking. Jars of jam, preserves and honey would be a better choice and a nicer touch than packets of sugary commercial jelly. Instead of a commercial coffee, I would have preferred La Colombe. The addition of sautéed onions, red peppers and fresh rosemary would heighten the flavor of sautéed potatoes. A little fresh fruit with pancakes or French toast is another recommendation.
Still we enjoyed brunch enormously. Fitzwater Café comes highly recommended.
Two-and-a half-tips of the toque to Fitzwater Café. SPR
Fitzwater Café
728 S. Seventh St.
215-629-0428
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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