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Tomorrow is Christmas Eve. In towns and cities throughout southern Italy and in Italian-American homes, families and friends will feast on a multicourse fish dinner. In Italy, it is called “La Vigilia,” while Italian-Americans call it The Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Edward and I were fortunate to be invited to a couple’s home on Christmas Eve a number of years ago. My friend decided to toss a last-minute Feast of the Seven Fishes at the home she shares with her partner.
Let’s say you have an array of fresh fish and shellfish. You want to prepare dishes that are easy and can be made before the first sleigh sighting.
My friend and her mother did just that. I helped and had a marvelous time listening to stories about Nonna’s life in the old country and how her Italian-American kitchen inspired her daughter and granddaughter.
Fried Smelts were on the menu. I can still see Edward standing near the stove, plate in hand, telling jokes. We also made mussels, clams, a light crabmeat salad, shrimp in garlic sauce, cod fish balls, a tossed salad and two whole baked red snapper. A platter of fruit and cheese and homemade cookies comprised dessert.
Since ceviche has become so popular on restaurant menus, you may wish to make this on Christmas Eve. Any fish or shellfish can be used. If you purchased tuna, you may want to make tuna tartar.
At one point during the festivities, my friend declared she had to have some pasta. We cooked up some farfalle and tossed it with a heady mushroom sauce.
We set up the buffet in the dining room and lifted our Champagne glasses in a celebratory toast. Then we savored a simple fish feast prepared with top-quality ingredients.
■ Fried Smelts ■
Ingredients:
2 pounds of smelts, wiped down with paper towels
Flour, for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Canola oil, for frying
Lemon wedges, for garnish
Directions:
Place about 1-1/2 cups of flour on a plate. Blend in the salt and pepper.
Heat about 2 inches of the oil in a large pot on high. Dredge each smelt in the flour, shaking off the excess.
Fry the fish in the pot until a light golden brown. Drain well on paper towels.
Serves eight.
Note from Phyllis: If you have a wok, it is a good vessel for frying smelts.
■ Mussels with Garlic, Onion and Fennel ■
Ingredients:
2 pounds of mussels, scrubbed clean
Olive oil, to coat the bottom of a large pot
6 cloves of garlic, sliced
1 small onion, diced
1 large fennel bulb, sliced
2 cups of dry white wine
Directions:
Heat the oil over medium-high.
Sauté the garlic, onion and fennel for about eight minutes. Add the mussels and wine. Bring to a boil. Lower to simmer and cook, shaking the pot once or twice, until the mussels open, about eight minutes.
Serves eight.
■ Crabmeat Salad ■
Ingredients:
1 pound of jumbo lump crabmeat, picked through for shells
1 tin of anchovies or a small jar of white anchovies, sliced
1 tablespoon of capers, rinsed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup of olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Directions:
Place the crab in a serving bowl. Blend in the anchovies and capers. Season with the salt and pepper.
Whisk the oil and lemon juice together. Pour over the salad. Blend well.
Serves eight.
Note from Phyllis: Soak the anchovies in milk to reduce their saltiness.
■ Baked Taleggio with Marcona Almonds and Fig Jam ■
Ingredients:
2 pounds of Taleggio, brought to room temperature
1 pound of Marcona almonds
Fig jam, for serving
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Place the cheese in a shallow baking dish. Top with the almonds. Bake for about 20 minutes, or just until the cheese begins to ooze slightly.
Place on a serving platter. Serve with the fig jam.
Serves eight.
Note from Phyllis: Taleggio has been called the brie of Italy. Most of the brie in America is not worth buying. It lacks the flavor and texture of brie sold in France. Taleggio resembles true French brie.
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