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Like most neighborhoods, South Philly is changing and evolving when it comes to restaurants and food trends. Who would have thought just 10 years ago, East Passyunk Avenue would become the city’s restaurant row?
I have a culinary wish list for South Philly that includes all types of cuisines. Here are some thoughts.
I have always wondered why South Philly lacks a first-rate modern seafood restaurant. Although oysters are served in a number of places, the raw bar experience, such as the one I enjoy at the Oyster House on Sansom Street, has not popped up. Cold tiered plates of cherrystone clams, oysters, jumbo wild American shrimp, seasonal stone crab claws and Maine lobsters along with simple grilled fish would be a fine addition to the neighborhood.
In recent years, Chinese food has taken a back seat to Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese fare. South Philly needs an authentic Chinese restaurant. The good news is chef Ben Puchowitz, who put Matyson and Cheu Noodle Bar on the city’s culinary map, is heading for East Passyunk Avenue. He has a concept in mind but has yet to share the details. It may be Asian-inspired. Or maybe he will go the Matyson route and present a four-course dinner, Monday through Thursday, for $45. Matyson is BYOB and a true bargain.
I never met a soup I did not like. Is there a chef in the city ready to open a soup and sandwich restaurant? The soups could hail from around the world and change with the season. Thick luscious lentil soup warms us during the cold days of winter while a refreshing gazpacho cools us down in summer. The sandwiches could run the gamut from the humble grilled cheese to classic club, piled high with real roasted turkey, to corned beef on rye.
Speaking of corned beef, this city desperately needs a Jewish deli. South Philly is the perfect place for one. I crave smoked fish, real bagels, crusty rye bread, fatty corned beef, pastrami, pickled herring and half-done pickles from the barrel. If only New York City’s Russ and Daughters could clone itself and show up in South Philly, I would be the first in line.
Or, how about a tea room? I can see a lovely spot decorated with teapots, cups and saucers, plants and flowers where this British late afternoon ritual takes place. Begin with dainty tea sandwiches, and proceed to real buttery scones, not the dreadful hockey pucks so many bakeries offer. Serve them with Devonshire cream and jam. Small pastries, eclairs and tarts with a choice of tea completes the meal.
I would love to see a New Orleans-inspired coffee shop like Nola’s famous Café Du Monde. Beignets with dusted confectioners’ sugar and a rich cup of café au lait would fill a void here.
South Philly has always been famous for its Italian restaurants. In recent years, French food has joined its European cousin. But there is a void.
I love Austrian-Hungarian food. Rich noodle soup, herring in sour cream, schnitzel, braised sweet and sour red cabbage, stuffed cabbage and cucumber salad are some of the dishes I would like to see on a menu. And the desserts, especially the Hungarian crepes and chestnut puree, would bring smiles all around the table.
Finally, let’s talk cupcakes. Last week, the Crumb’s cupcake chain closed its doors in shops all over Manhattan. There was a Philadelphia branch off Rittenhouse Square that closed months ago. I walked by dozens of times, and there was not a soul inside. I tasted a Crumb cupcake just once. I found it dry and cloyingly sweet. I have never been a cupcake girl. I love donuts. I used to make them with my grandmother.
South Philly has Federal Donuts, the best you can find in town. The original location at 1219 S. Second St. spawned four more. I could eat one right now.
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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