28043252
Edward and I live in Logan Square. The Franklin Institute is nearby as is Trader Joe’s, but Darling’s is our only cafe. We are in desperate need of restaurants here.
Seven years ago, Tir Na Nog opened in The Phoenix at 16th and the Parkway. The fare was OK and it was within walking distance of our home. The Irish pub’s owners Maurice Collins and Liam Kelly decided to gut the space that last housed a Japanese restaurant at 17th and the Parkway; before that, it was Peacock on the Parkway. They named their newest place Con Murphy’s.
Con Murphy’s is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Prices are reasonable and the bill of fare included a number of new, pub-style dishes.
The restaurant has a friendly bar, a few televisions and several high-top tables downstairs. My sister Sandy, Edward and I settled into an comfortable banquette upstairs.
Icy cold Bombay Sapphire martinis were just $8. Sandy’s Absolute martini was $7.50. Our server told us about the fish and chips dinner special ($14) and the soup of the day ($5), a mussel soup.
A cup of crab chowder ($5) was a spicy twist on Maryland she-crab soup. The broth was a spicy tomato-base flecked with good-quality crabmeat and potatoes. We could not understand why chef Todd Butler topped the soup with croutons. They detracted from the flavor.
The soup of the day had a fresh mussel broth as its base and the bits of mollusk were tender, but again, why the croutons?
Sandy and I wanted to share the iceberg wedge salad the Titanic ($9), while Edward ordered a side of Brussels sprouts ($4).
The Titanic was a near-disaster. The lettuce was white and lacked flavor. The blue cheese dressing was watery, more crisp bacon was needed, the grape tomatoes and red onion were extraneous and more croutons appeared, these prepared with pumpernickel. The slightly sweet sprouts, however, were delicious, retaining a bit of crunch.
Butler hit the mark with the whole grilled artichoke ($9). There was a mild, smoky flavor that was enhanced by a thin aioli dipping sauce. I thought the sauce needed more garlic and it could have been thicker and richer. Still, the globe artichoke was fun to eat, breaking off the leaves, pulling them through my teeth and then downing the tender choke.
Fish and chips consisted of several meaty pieces of fresh, tender cod coated in a light batter and deep-fried to a golden brown. Fries were served in a wax paper-lined cup. They could have been hotter, but they were not greasy.
Edward went for the salmon ($17), which was Mediterranean-style. About 6 ounces of fresh center-cut filet was pan-roasted and nestled on a bed of black beluga lentils, surrounded by tomatoes, slightly salty Kalamata olives, fresh basil and orange segments. I felt it could have been hotter, but Edward said it was to his taste.
Stout-braised beef short ribs ($17) were inedible. A chunk of beef was topped with a sweet, viscous sauce. Sitting beside it were two cold, cooked baby carrots wrapped in cool wilted greens. A lump of cool mashed potatoes were nearby. Hot food should taste fresh and hot. Our server understood and whisked it away.
In its place I ordered a bacon cheeseburger ($12), which fared much better. I ordered it medium-rare and it arrived well-done. I ate it because several strips of crisp and tasty slab bacon added flavor as did the cheddar. The fries on my plate were hot and crisp.
We shared a bottle of California Cabernet for $28, which was a bargain.
You have to ask for bread because it does not automatically arrive with soups, salads or appetizers. A small French-style bread was sliced and slightly grilled, served with soft triangles of sweet butter.
Service was excellent. The manager chatted with us about the salad and short ribs. She removed both from our bill.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Con Murphy’s.
Con Murphy’s
1700 Benjamin Franklin Parkway
267-687-1128
