32000017
Center City’s newest steakhouse is Chops, which joined an ever-growing list of restaurants where carnivores have their day. It opened last month on the site of the breathtakingly beautiful Oceanaire, an upscale fishhouse that sank about a year ago.
The problem with reviewing a steakhouse is it’s not much fun. They all serve the same foods. I decided to lunch at Chops because the menu would not pigeonhole me into writing about Cowboy steaks or any other standard dishes, like wedge salad with blue cheese or creamed spinach.
The bar area and dining room have hardwood floors and roomy banquettes. Tables are set with crisp white linen.
My server introduced herself (Giselle) and advised me of the specials. She pointed out the 10-ounce Kobe burger was $6 instead of the menu-listed $15. (Chops is running a promotion.) She spoke the what- kind-of-water-would-you-like spiel, answered my questions and gave me a few minutes to decide. I ordered iced tea and a server always was walking around the room, filling my glass.
Stale, cold bread arrived and so did butter that was so chilled it fell off the bread in one piece when I tried to spread it.
I began with clams casino ($12), a favorite at home. This classic dish must be made with either top-necks or cherrystones. What I received was eight littlenecks in their shells, floating in a pool of hot grease. The meat was the size of a newborn’s fingernail and charred into a dark, chewy mess. The clams were so tough, I struggled to free the meat from its shell. When I finally succeeded, spurts of grease landed on my Sunday New York Times magazine. The offending dish was whisked away and removed from my check.
Edward has eaten at the Chops in Bala Cynwyd and told me to order the chopped salad ($8). It is made with finely chopped iceberg and romaine lettuces, red peppers, tomatoes, onions and anchovies tossed in a red wine vinaigrette. The absolutely tasteless tomatoes were so pale and anemic, they cried out for a transfusion. Anchovies provided a bit of saltiness, but they did nothing to add flavor to ingredients overdressed with much-too-much red wine vinegar.
I have eaten Kobe beef on a few occasions and have forgotten how juicy and tender it can be. I ordered my burger medium-rare and it arrived medium-rare. Although the beef should have been charred on the outside, it was, nonetheless, tasty and nicely seasoned. It was topped with sautéed onions that added a bit of sweetness.
A tad of yellow cheddar mingled with the onions. The cheese was almost liquid and had the texture of processed cheese food. The burger was on a soft roll, which I like. A small square leaf of iceberg lettuce and two slices of the anemic tomato, complete with part of the light inner-core, came with the dish. The french fries were neither steakhouse nor shoestring, but they did arrive hot. A small ramekin of Russian dressing was provided for dipping.
Giselle carried the dessert tray to my table, which contained slabs of sweets plucked right from the ’80s.
“All desserts are made here except for the cheesecake, which is from the Aramingo Diner,” she said.
Nothing tempted my sweet tooth. I nixed the cheesecake, chocolate mousse cake, crème brulee and oatmeal-gray-looking pear crisp and opted for a brownie sundae ($12). You read that right. Twelve dollars for a brownie, two scoops of Ciao Bello ice cream (one chocolate, one vanilla), whipped cream and chocolate syrup with a cherry on top. I found the ice cream lacking richness. Hometown Bassetts would have hit the mark.
Giselle took fine care of me. We laughed that she always asked me “how is your salad, burger, etc.,” whenever I had food in my mouth. She’s a transplant from Maine, about to graduate from Drexel University’s School of Law and wants to work with troubled juveniles. She was the loveliest part of my afternoon at Chops.
One-half tip of the toque to Chops.
Chops
700 Walnut St.
215-922-7770
www.chops.us
32000037
31999982
