83782916
Plans are in full swing for celebrations on what would have been Julia Child’s 100th birthday. She was born on Aug. 15, 1912 in Pasadena, Calif., and died on Aug. 13, 2004 in Santa Barbara, Calif.
I always thought Julia would get a kick out of the fact that she left us on Friday the 13th.
I may be the sole Philadelphia restaurant critic/food columnist who knew Julia. We last met at a big Moroccan dinner hosted by my friend Esther Press McManus at her home near Rittenhouse Square in 1996. Julia and I watched with humorous horror as Georges Perrier topped off his flute of Perrier-Jouët with a splash of Perrier.
It was a remarkable feast of appetizers, bisteeya — the scrumptious savory chicken pie redolent with cinnamon — perfectly roasted legs of lamb, which chef Peter Gilmore carved with the skill of a surgeon, and an array of Middle-Eastern sweets.
Restaurants and good home cooks are holding special dinners in honor of Julia’s centennial. On Aug. 12, the Philadelphia chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International, an international nonprofit for women in the food/wine/hospitality industries, will celebrate at the home of Susanna Foo. I have been a member of the organization for more than 23 years and will bring a platter of cool baked cucumbers as per Julia’s recipe.
On the weekend of Julia’s death, I prepared a platter of juicy, red ripe tomatoes with basil from my garden, roast chicken, baked cucumbers, couscous and a mix of fresh fruit macerated in Champagne.
Here’s to you, Julia. You have influenced my professional life and the way I cook at home.
Baked Cucumbers
From “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck
Ingredients:
6 cucumbers, about 8 inches long, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon
2 tablespoons of wine vinegar
1-1/2 half teaspoons of salt
1/8 teaspoon of sugar
3 tablespoons of butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon of dill or basil
3 to 4 tablespoons of minced green onions
1/8 teaspoon of pepper
Directions:
Cut the cucumbers into lengthwise strips about three-eighths-inch wide and then into 2-inch pieces.
Toss the cucumbers in a stainless steel bowl with the vinegar, salt and sugar. Let stand for at least 30 minutes or for several hours. Drain and pat dry with a towel.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Toss the cucumbers into a baking dish 12 inches in diameter and one-and-a-half inches deep. Add the butter, herbs, onions and pepper. Toss well.
Set uncovered in the middle level of the oven for about one hour, tossing two or three times, until cucumbers are tender but still have the suggestion of crispness and texture. They will barely color during cooking.
Serves six.
Note from Phyllis: Snip the dill and basil in this recipe. You can enjoy the cucumbers hot, warm or at room temperature.
Perfect Roast Chicken
Ingredients:
1 6-pound organic chicken, wiped down thoroughly with paper towels, inside and outside.
3 tablespoons of unsalted butter, softened and cut into pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Imported sweet smoked Spanish paprika
1 cup of chicken stock
2 teaspoons of cornstarch mixed with 1-1/2 cups of water
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Make sure the chicken is at room temperature. Using your fingertips, gently pull away the breast skin and place pieces of the butter under it. Once all of the butter is used, gently press down on the chicken breast.
Season the chicken, inside and outside, with the salt. Sprinkle with the black pepper and paprika.
Place the chicken in a roasting pan. Roast, uncovered, for at least 90 minutes, or until the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a knife.
Allow the chicken to rest, tented with aluminum foil, for about 10 minutes before carving.
Place the pan juices in a saucepan. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer, stirring well. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened.
Serves six.
Note from Phyllis: Julia especially enjoyed baked cucumbers with roast chicken or any type of roast. I would serve a Cotes du Rhone or cabernet sauvignon with the chicken. SPR
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
83782936
83782926
