Brauhaus Schmitz’s Huhn in Riesling

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Chef Jeremy Nolen

Jeremy Nolen didn’t want to become a cook. He left Penn State University where he was studying history and German to tour with his then-band, but Nolen also had a knack for cooking. His dad was the executive chef at a Reading hotel.

His father forced Nolen, then 13, to join him, giving him $20 a night, which he splurged on comic books. He continued to cook through high school and used that experience to make some cash in between music gigs.

“When the band broke up, that’s when I realized I wanted to cook,” Nolen said. “I enjoyed it before, but I learned I wanted to be a chef.”

He soon made the jump to Philly, starting at Bridget Foy’s, 200 South St., then Coquette Bistro, formerly 700 S. Fifth St. He began to toss in German influences, a talent he learned at a Reading country club he attended as a child and where he later cooked.

A customer at the Queen Village eatery knew Doug Hager and Kelly Schmitz Hager, who were looking to launch what is now Brauhaus Schmitz, 718 South St., and referred Nolen.

He and his wife, Jessica, whom he met at Coquette, both joined the team. His other half serves up the desserts while he prepares authentic German fare, such as Huhn in Riesling, a tribute to the European country’s wine-producing region.

“It’s a modern rendition of a traditional dish,” Nolen said.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of Canola oil
1 tablespoon of butter
1 chicken, cut into quarters, or 4 boneless skinless chicken breasts or thighs
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 onion, sliced
1 leek, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch of green seedless grapes, picked off the vine
1 quart of Riesling wine
1 pint of chicken stock
1 bunch of tarragon, leaves removed
1 cup of crème fraiche or sour cream

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the canola oil and butter.

Season the chicken with the salt and pepper and add to the Dutch oven one piece at a time, cooking until golden brown, four minutes on each side. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chicken from pan and reserve. Add the onions, leeks and garlic to the pan and cook until translucent, about four minutes. Add half of the grapes and cook, stirring occasionally, for three minutes.

Return the chicken to the pan and add the wine and chicken stock. Cover and place in the oven for 30 minutes. Check the chicken’s internal temperature with a thermometer and remove when it reaches 160 degrees. Add the tarragon, crème fraiche and remaining grapes and stir to combine.

Serve immediately over spätzle, noodles or dumplings. Serves four to six. SPR

Brauhaus Schmitz

Owners: Doug Hager and Kelly Schmitz Hager
Opened June 2009
718 South St.
267-909-8814
brauhausschmitz.com

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