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On a brutally hot July evening a number of years ago, chef Fritz Blank invited about 20 people to dinner at his Deux Cheminees. He moved to Thailand a few years ago, but decided to do something special for friends and colleagues. It was a Monday night and the restaurant was closed.
Edward and I were among the guests along with the owner of Sand Castle Winery, an importer and his daughter, a lawyer here and there and several people in the world of advertising and public relations.
As we arrived, waiters were passing flutes of champagne from silver trays. After about 30 minutes, we were led into one of the main dining rooms. A large table was covered with an antique lace tablecloth that belonged to Blank’s grandmother. I clearly recall each dish on the table because the evening turned out to be one of my most memorable.
There was a platter of sweetbreads "en croute," a whole poached salmon, a platter of fresh Jersey asparagus, a sizzling oval copper pan of potatoes au gratin, a platter of sliced red ripe Jersey tomatoes and a large tossed salad.
Servers brought us french rolls, softened butter and poured red and white wine. Dessert was fresh peach and blueberry cobbler with vanilla ice cream.
I’ve savored many dishes in Europe and all over America, but on that night, it was the simplicity of the meal featuring top local ingredients that has stayed in my mind. Blank did not have to go over the top or pull out all the stops by serving foie gras, oysters, caviar, dry aged steaks or other fancy, expensive foods. This was a memorable meal filled with fun and good conversation.
Another culinary highlight was a "Book and the Cook" dinner at the Ritz-Carlton when South Philadelphia-born chef Franco Martorella was in charge of the kitchen. The dinner featured wines by Chappellet Vineyards and Molly Chappellet was on hand to discuss her wares. Before the meal, we helped ourselves to handmade ravioli served in a copper pan and sipped a crisp Chenin Blanc.
Chappellet spent the morning at Reading Terminal Market choosing fruits and vegetables that would be used as table centerpieces. Colorful artichokes, eggplants, bunches of celery, lemons and limes brightened up the room.
The first course was a crisp potato pancake topped with crème fresh and a dollop of caviar. A salad of spring vegetables followed. The main course was rare rack of Colorado lamb with roasted potatoes and baby vegetables. Dessert featured a fresh fruit tart.
We sampled two Chardonnays and two Cabernet Sauvignons. There was much debate as to which best enhanced each dish. Many preferred the younger Cabernet, which turned out to cost less than the older one. (There are no steadfast rules when tasting wines.)
My intention here is to make you hungry. It is also my intention to make you recall memorable meals either at home, in friends’ and families homes and in restaurants. Simple dishes are easy to recreate at home.
I have a list of memorable meals I keep stored away. Some were exquisite, such as sampling wild venison at Carrier’s in London, pressed duck at Laperousse in Paris and arctic char at a French restaurant in Ottawa. At a Greek restaurant in Montreal, Edward and I made our way around the room selecting the fish we wanted for dinner, including the finest soft-shell crabs I ever tasted.
Then there was the time my friend Esther Press McManus created a Moroccan feast at her Rittenhouse Square home in honor of Julia Child. I recall each dish she cooked and watched in awe as chef Peter Gillmore carved two large legs of lamb with the skill of a surgeon.
I will save that evening for another time.
Cool Poached Salmon
Ingredients:
1 side wild of salmon
1 cup of dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon of peppercorns
Directions:
Place the salmon in a large skillet. Add the remaining ingredients and enough water to submerge the fish. Boil, then lower to medium-high and cook uncovered for about 20 minutes, depending upon the thickness of the fish.
Cool the salmon on a platter to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least four hours.
Serves six to eight.
Cucumber Dill Sauce
Ingredients:
1 large English or 6 Israeli cucumbers, peeled and chopped
1 pint of sour cream
1 teaspoon of lemon juice
Fresh dill, snipped
Directions:
Place all of the ingredients in a bowl and blend well. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Serves six to eight.
