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Myrna Loy is one of my favorite actresses. I particularly liked when she teamed up with William Powell and Asta the terrier in "The Thin Man" film series. Loy and Powell often went one-on-one, drinking martinis in glorious nightspots. If a 21st-century filmmaker wanted to recreate this famous couple, they might film Nora and Nick sipping cocktails at Apothecary Bar & Lounge.
Apothecary is the brainchild of Bruno Pouget who charmed our city when he opened Caribou Café a number of years ago. For his latest venture, he figured if beer and wine bars are attracting patrons, a cocktail bar would do the same.
I made two visits to Apothecary. On both occasions, I found the staff to be courteous, friendly and professional. The barkeeps are masters of mixology, especially Bill, Nick and Tara. They are precise lab technicians of the cocktail in every way.
Apothecary, a historical name for the modern-day pharmacist, echoes back to the days when drugs were mixed and measured by hand, often using a mortar and pestle. Here we find the bartenders in a similar role, creating and inventing new cocktails at every turn.
Located on South 13th Street, just next door to Lolita, the property is only marked by a pharmacy symbol above the door. The interior is long, sleek and modern. There are tables in front for sipping and nibbling and a white marble-topped bar with gleaming comfortable stainless steel barstools. The roof top deck is now open for those who like to drink al fresco.
Tara mixed me a Blue Coat gin martini ($11) in an individual shaker. I chatted with Bill and Tara as I perused the menu.
As with beer and wine bars, the drinks list is much longer than the bill of fare. There are less than 15 food choices on the menu. Hopefully, the Apothecary team will add more nibbles.
I sampled four dishes on two evenings: Two were extraordinary, one was OK and one was just not to my taste.
Celebrated magnetic wraps ($10) consisted of four fat Boston lettuce leaves filled with shredded, miso-marinated chicken breasts tossed with fresh herbs. A scattering of thin, crispy Asian noodles were strewn over the dish as were cool, thinly sliced radishes, which added a bit of zing. Each wrap was tied with a thin scallion. The addition of coriander leaves enhanced the Asian flavor as did the ponzu dip. I even enjoyed the wraps straight for they imparted a fresh, clean flavor.
P.A.F.F. ($12) — proscuitto, arugula, fennel and fontina — contained six pita-like crispy, crusty triangles generously topped with proscuitto, which provided the salt, arugula, which provided the peppery flavor, fennel, which scores big with a light licorice taste and warm melted fontina. Some fresh tomato was added, but did not overpower the combined tastes and textures.
The Big Pills ($9) consisted of six small crepe rolls filled with tuna, bacon and sundried tomato. The rolls would have been tastier if the fish was doused with a bit of olive oil. I am not a fan of sundried tomato and feel the rolls would have had a sparkling flavor if fresh chopped tomato was used. Several marinated green olives came with the dish. The crepes imparted a sweet flavor that detracted from the Mediterranean-style ingredients inside.
Turkish Red Delight ($9) seemed a bit off kilter. Fresh chopped beef was covered with cumin for a hot flavor. The mix was placed on six triangles of the aforementioned flat bread, which made the bread soggy. I liked the use of shredded red cabbage for taste and texture along with a thin drizzle of yogurt laced with lime juice. To me, the dish tasted like chili.
The wine list is small compared to the carte du cocktails. On one night, I sipped a grassy Sauvignon Blanc ($8) and on the other a flowery Torrontes ($10) Tara had recommended. Both were flavorful and enhanced the food.
New and classic cocktails made a big comeback during the 1990s. The Cosmopolitan gave way for mixologists to experiment with ingredients and garnishes. Bill and Nick were up to plenty of good as they created a mint julep and offered me a taste.
"Very good, indeed," I announced. The drink was as fine as my visits to Apothecary, especially because of the back-and-forth I enjoyed with the barkeeps.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Apothecary.
Apothecary Bar & Lounge
102 S. 13th St.
215-735-7500
Credit cards accepted
