A French affair

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My grandmother, who was born in Austria, made her own sauerkraut, pickles and roasted peppers. I have always loved sauerkraut, especially on a hot dog. Many years ago, I discovered a dish from Alsace that made delicious use of this shredded, fermented cabbage and sausages. It is called Choucroute and it is one of my favorite fall meals.

I found the recipe in Judith Huxley’s book "Table for Eight." It is a marvelous one-pot wonder and the beauty is you can use any type of sausage or pork. As a young girl, I did not know my grandmother’s dish was called choucroute, but she kept a kosher home so her version was swine-free.

This meal is perfect for a cool Sunday. Invite friends over because this is not a dish for two. With an open bottle of crisp white wine and two glasses, ask a friend to read the recipe as you cook. Everyone else will be in the living room watching the Eagles game.

Begin dinner with a green salad accented with marinated vegetables such as mushrooms or artichoke hearts. Boiled potatoes, with lots of butter and parsley, are a tasty side for choucrute. A platter of cheese with sliced apples and pears is the perfect dessert.

A slightly dry, yet flowery white wine is used in the choucroute. A Torrontes from Argentina, a dry Gewurztraminer from France or a dry Riesling are all fine choices. And the chef always gets a glass while at the stove.


Choucroute

Ingredients:

  • 5 pounds of fresh sauerkraut, rinsed in several changes of cold water and thoroughly dried
  • 1/4 cup of chicken fat or canola oil
  • 2 medium onions, diced
  • 1-1/2 cups of dry white wine
  • 2-1/2 cups of chicken stock
  • 1 square of cheese cloth
  • 1 teaspoon juniper berries
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 2 large bay leaves
  • 3/4 pound of thick sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 3 smoked pork chops
  • 1 pound kielbasa
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 smoked bratwurst
  • 2 unsmoked bratwurst
  • 2 weisswurst
  • 8 all-beef knockwurst
  • 12 small Red Bliss potatoes

Directions:

  • Begin cooking about two hours before desired serving time. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  • Melt the chicken fat or oil in a heavy six-quart casserole. Add the onions and saut� for about 10 minutes. Add the sauerkraut, wine and stock. Bring to a simmer. Tie the berries, pepper and bay leaves in the cheese cloth and bury in the sauerkraut.
  • Add the bacon mixing it into the sauerkraut, then burying in the pork chops. Cover and bake for one hour.
  • Place a pot of salted water on the stove to boil the potatoes.
  • Remove the casserole from the oven. Bury the kielbasa in the sauerkraut. If all the liquid has been absorbed, add another 1/2 cup of stock or wine. Cover and bake for about 25 minutes. Add the potatoes to the boiling water and cook for about 15 minutes.
  • Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet and add both bratwurst, the weisswurst and knockwurst, sauteing over a low flame for about 20 minutes.
  • Remove the casserole from the oven and remove the pork chops and kielbasa and place on a cutting board. Slice each into eight pieces. Drain the potatoes in a colander.
  • Remove the sauerkraut with a large slotted spoon and place in a mound in the center of two large serving platters.
  • Place the meats and potatoes around the sauerkraut.
  • Serves eight.

Note from Phyllis: Serve the dish with an assortment of mustards such as Dijon, German and Creole. Also keep plenty of butter and parsley on hand for the potatoes.


Cheese Platter with Fresh Apples and Pears

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 pound of imported blue cheese such as Roquefort or Maytag Blue
  • 1/2 pound Morbier
  • 1/2 pound Chevre
  • 4 to 6 apples such as Fuji, Granny Smith, Jonagold or Jonathan
  • 4 to 6 Anjou or Bosc pears
  • Assorted nuts such as spiced walnuts, smoked almonds and roasted cashews

Directions:

  • Cut each cheese in half and set them on two serving platters.
  • Using an apple slicer, slice each apple and pear into wedges. Divide between the two platters.
  • Place the nuts in separate serving bowls.
  • Serves eight.

Note from Phyllis: This dish is all about presentation and a beautiful platter makes a big difference. I have several cheese platters I constantly use. One is large and made of crystal from Sweden as well as a few other marble ones I own. I also have an assortment of cheese plates so each guest can have their own. Visit Fante’s, kitchenware stores or department stores and invest in a set of top-quality serving dishes.