The 1920s

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Let’s meat

Cold cuts, rolls and vegetables have found fewer older helpers than Ricci Bros. Hoagies. Allegience to family eceipes has kept the eatery thriving.

The Riccis started their family hoagie shop in 1920, but when the clan was unable to continue operation, the second-generation trio of brothers went to their neighbor 12 years ago.

“When they asked me if I wanted to buy it, I jumped at the opportunity,” Richard Pagliarella, current owner of Ricci Bros. Hoagies, 1165 S. 11th St., who formerly ran a nearby candy store and 7-Eleven. “In fact, I sold everything I had just to buy that place.”

Pagliarella, hopes his son Richard Jr., who helps out, takes control to keep the Passyunk Square eatery’s original recipes, such as turkey and cheese, as well as Italian tuna with provolone, alive.

“I kept everything the same. I never changed anything,” the native of 22nd Street and Snyder Avenue, who currently lives across the street from the shop at 11th and Federal streets, said.

-Amanda L. Snyder

Frank-ly speaking

Quinn’s Flower Shop has prospered from having four generations put petals to the metal, timely delivering to area churches, among other clients.

Customers might think it’s all about the roses at Quinn’s Flower Shop, 2008 S. Third St., but the dedication from a long line of Frank Quinns also has helped the 91-year-old success story blossom. Fourth-generation proprietor Frank Quinn IV runs the business with his grandmother, Mary Quinn, and aunt, Eileen Quinn-Cassidy.

“It’s about the togetherness of being with the family,” he said of the business his great-grandfather, Frank Quinn Sr., founded in 1921 . “It’s like having Thanksgiving dinner every weekend with the family.”

Now 5-year-old Frank Quinn V even helps out with deliveries for the Pennsport-based business that regularly deals with the Mummers, St. Nicholas of Tolentine, Our Lady of Mount Carmel and Sacred Heart of Jesus.

“We love dealing with the people from the neighborhood,” Quinn IV said.

-Bill Gelman

Frankfurter foreman

Texas Wieners began with a far more European-sounding name yet now offers fare that is undeniably American.

Secrets can be hard to keep, but when it’s the recipe for the special sauce that has kept customers hooked on hot dogs since 1923 , its owners aren’t about to let it slip.

“It’s all about the sauce,” John Viggiano, co-owner of Texas Wieners , 1426 Snyder Ave., along with his wife, Monica, said. “That’s why people still come back.”

Loyal customers have helped to keep the business running ever since Stephanos Mandrohalos founded what was then known as The Greeks nearly 90 years ago. Originally located at 2031 S. Broad St., the shop moved to its current spot a few years later. Famous above all other menu items is The Works, a hot dog topped with mustard, onions and that ever-mysterious special sauce.

The long-lasting Newbold business has added new menu items, among other items.

“We just got a new TV, a nice 40-inch flat screen,” Viggiano said. “We’re coming out of the dinosaur ages.”

-Bobby Kittredge

A rye sense

Russ Cowan adores tradition, especially with respect to his Jewish heritage, so when the businessman had a chance to purchase Famous 4th Street Delicatessen , 700 S. Fourth St., in 2005, he pounced. The Queen Village eatery, which began as Cohen’s Delicatessen, has sated appetites since 1923, even enjoying a 30-year stint as politicians’ Primary and Election Day lunchtime haunt.

“I felt acquiring Famous would be a great fit for my continuing dream to manage restaurants,” Cowan said.

After an eight-decade run as the second owner, the Auspitz family sold Famous to Cowan, whose background includes overseeing Pennsylvania and New Jersey delis. He refined the property and the offerings, with corned beef, smoked pastrami and roasted turkey as his bread’s best friends.

“It is pretty satisfying to keep the food product line and name going,” Cowan said.

-Joseph Myers

Prescription conviction

Bertolino’s Pharmacy has been filling prescriptions for 87 years.

Tom Bertolino reveres his role as the third-generation overseer of Bertolino’s Pharmacy, 1500 S. 12th St., which has bettered bodies since 1925.

Following two years of pharmaceutical studies, his grandfather Ralph Bertolino opened the Passyunk Square store, eventually entrusting the duties to his son, also Ralph Bertolino. After assisting as a delivery boy, Tom took over in ’91 and has managed the establishment and adjacent gift shop all with the aim to gain familiarity and trust.

“I know almost all of my customers and welcome each chance to help them,” he said.

He and his staff fill at least 125 prescriptions daily and, because of the high senior population, he prides himself on offering coupons and setting up co-pay discounts.

“I go out of my way to make things as cheap as possible,” he said. “They react thankfully, and they come back.”

-Joseph Myers

Internal affairs

Dad’s Stuffing began as John’s Butchers, but no matter the appellation, the overseeing family’s affinity for making stomachs’ acquaintance has not diminished.

A common trend among South Philly’s longest-lasting businesses is family tradition, and Dad’s Stuffing , 1615 W. Ritner St., is no exception. The store, currently owned by brothers Carmen, Johnny and Richard Commoroto, was opened as John’s Butchers by their grandfather, John Rugierri, in 1925 .

“It’s family, it’s love, it’s everything together,” Richard said of the business. “The neighborhood knows us here. They know what to expect.”

One thing customers can definitely expect is the guaranteed high-quality food Dad’s serves, as the Commoroto sons learned their work ethic from the best: Their mother, Annette, and father, Carmen, who has worked at the business for 65 years. The eldest Commoroto still puts in five days a week at the age of 85.

“My mom works right alongside my dad, and they’ve been married 59 years,” Richard said. “They keep the family together. My parents are unbelievable.”

-Bobby Kittredge

Such a Swede heart

The American Swedish Historical Museum never strays away from honoring its ancestry with tradition-based celebrations. The site is the nation’s oldest such Swedish venue.

Swedes populated the Delaware River’s adjacent areas in such large numbers from 1638 to ’55 that historians have dubbed their resulting colony New Sweden. The American Swedish Historical Museum, 1900 Pattison Ave., founded in 1926 to celebrate America’s sesquicentennial, stands as the nation’s oldest Swedish museum and aspires to make each day a celebration of its Scandinavian heroes and traditions.

“In such a multicultural city as Philadelphia, it’s great to highlight and celebrate Swedish contributions,” Executive Director Tracey Beck said.

Her Packer Park site does so through exhibitions and cultural events, including next month’s Midsommarfest, which will combine music, games and food to acknowledge the museum’s historical gratitude.

“People need not be Swedish to enjoy our space,” Beck said. “They will definitely find something appealing every time.”

-Joseph Myers

Authentic Italian cuisine

Immigrating from Italy in the early 1920s, Salvatore and Chiarina Marra brought an authentic Italian cuisine to the streets of South Philly. A staple, Marra’s Cucina Italiana, 1734 E. Passyunk Ave., first opened in 1927, and today their grandson Robert D’Adamo and his cousin Maurizio DeLuca act as co-owners.

“It’s a tie between the original cheese pizza and the margherita pie,” Robert D’Adamo Jr. said about the menu’s most popular items.

Since opening 85 years ago, a fair share of celebrities, including John Travolta and Tommy Lasorda, has dined at the establishment famous for its award-winning “Original Brick Oven” pizza. The bricks were even imported from Italy along with the old-school recipes.

“I think that being around so long is a great thing,” D’Adamo said. “It goes right along with that South Philly family pride.”

-Alexis Abate

Toast to longevity

Cicione Beverage looks to land libations in the hands of responsible connoisseurs.

In 1929, Italian immigrants Vincent and Lena Cicione opened a grocery store at 1729 S. 20th St. that sold beer, which was legal prior to Prohibition. The Liquor Control Board’s creation forced the family to split its businesses in ’33, but during World War II the family shuttered its food endeavor in favor of its liquid counterpart.

Second-generation owner Salvatore, now 88, left Cicione Beverage to his children, Helene and Vincent, but visits the Point Breeze business, which he lived above as a child.

“He sits in the chair and watches everything that goes on,” Helene said.

The business, formerly delivering Schmidt’s to Veterans Stadium, strives to satisfy its customers by keeping up with changing demographics.

"We are getting more and more requests for the microbrews," Helene said.

-Amanda L. Snyder

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

South Philly Milestones
The Pre-1900s
The 1900s
The 1910s
The 1930s
The 1940s
The 1950s and ’60s

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