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Restaurant critics discover new restaurants in a number of ways. I tip my toque to our readers who contact me via e-mail, Twitter and snail mail, telling me about the latest place for brunch or for an informal dinner.
I recently learned about Al Zaytouna, a middle-eastern gem in the Italian Market. I was good to go. Eastern Mediterranean foods are among my favorites ever since my first trip to Israel.
Located next door to the delightful Sabrina’s, Al Zaytouna reflects the casual feel of the neighborhood. The restaurant is BYOB and has takeout, catering and delivery service. The owner, who took excellent care of us, is from Tunisia.
Sandy, Edward and I began our dinner with a variety of appetizers ($11.95), which whet our appetite for the meal ahead. People begin with this array of starters in restaurants and at home throughout the Middle East.
A basket of warm, immaculately fresh pita arrived along with a large platter of tempting foods. It contained homemade hummus, which was light, creamy and topped with a tiny pool of olive oil; baba ghannouj, or whipped eggplant spread; two cool grape leaves stuffed with aromatic rice; two of the finest falafel this side of Tel Aviv; and a generous mound of tabouli, chopped with fresh parsley and herbs. Sometimes hummus has a grainy taste and texture, but this version was prepared just right. It was a first for Sandy, who thoroughly enjoyed smearing it on warm pita. We enjoyed the falafel so much, we ordered it as an appetizer ($4.95) and quickly polished them off. They were crispy and free of grease on the outside, creamy with pureed chickpeas, parsley and spices on the inside.
Since it was a bitter cold night, I warmed up with a generous bowl of homemade lentil soup ($3.95), which was rich with diced carrots, celery and onions. It packed quite a punch. Perhaps a bit of harissa made its way into the soup. It was so piping hot, I waited a few minutes for it to cool down.
Kofta are often served as an appetizer but Al Zaytouna offers these small, cigar-shaped seasoned ground beef beauties as a platter ($12.95). Sandy, who ordered the chicken shawarma platter ($10.95), could not believe the amount of food on one plate. The platters are so generous that two people could share one.
The kofta, which were nicely charred on the outside, emitting a smoky flavor and aroma, were as fine as I have tried in many Middle Eastern places. My dinner included a big pool of hummus; rice tossed with carrots and peas as well as grilled onions and red peppers; and a tossed salad.
Sandy’s dinner consisted of a large chicken cutlet pounded thin, charcoal-grilled and cut into small pieces. It lacked eye appeal because the smoke of the grill gave the chicken a grayish hue but the flavor was spot on. It was a tad spicy and married well with the rice and hummus.
Unfortunately for us, the restaurant was out of its merguez sausages that went to a catering client that evening. The owner suggested the lamb kebob sandwich ($9.95). Edward said the lamb was as tender as marshmallows. Cubes of grilled leg of lamb made their way into a large piece of warm pita, topped with lettuce and tomatoes and rolled up like a carpet. As with all of the meats we tasted here, the lamb was perfectly seasoned.
Sandy never tasted a chopped salad, so we ordered one for the table ($5.95). Tiny dices of seedless cucumber, sweet onion, tomatoes, green peppers and sweet red onions were tossed with olive oil and lemon juice and topped with tiny black and green olives. The salad was simple, fresh, light and fragrant.
Since the platters were so generous, much of our dinners were carefully packed to go. The hummus was placed into a heavy, plastic container and served as a tasty lunch with the kofta, chicken and salads.
Al Zaytouna is a good place to go if you crave the foods of the sunny Mediterranean, served in a relaxed, casual atmosphere at very moderate prices. It is a fine addition to Bella Vista.
Three tips of the toque to Al Zaytouna. SPR
Al Zaytouna
906 Christian St.
215-574-5040
al-zaytouna.com
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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