Handicapping EPRW

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Now in its third year, East Passyunk Avenue Restaurant Week, South Philly’s entry into the city’s abundant “restaurant week” scene, will return from February 22-28. Though opinions differ on these types of events — regulars and foodies sometimes scowl at the crowds while college kids or families appreciate a reasonable night on the town — their wild popularity is undeniable. East Passyunk sets itself up a bit differently than its Center City counterpart by offering $15, $25, and $35 prix fix menus for lunch, dinner, and even a few for brunch. It adds up to 28 restaurants, 34 menus, 102 courses and just one week. Breaking all of that down and building the perfect food week begins with taking a look the spots below that are doing this week right.

The can’t-miss menus

In my book, restaurants earn points when their restaurant week lines up with their daily menu, allowing diners to experience dishes they’ve perfected as opposed to ones manufactured to fit the price point. Joncarl Lachman’s ever-inviting Noord, 1046 Tasker St., knocked its restaurant week menu out of the park by doing just that. Cider braised pork shoulder, sautéed Icelandic haddock and shellfish waterzooi anchor the entrees. Order up either the house smoked salmon smorrebrod or bitternballen (braised pork meatballs) as the preface, and, value-wise, you’re already over the $35 price before your “free” desert arrives.

Normally, I am not a fan of supplement-laden menus. Typically, they detract from what is offered for $35 and defeat the purpose of the special pricing. Palladino’s on Passyunk, 1934 East Passyunk Ave., flipped this notion on its head by constructing a menu that is supplement heavy that still supplies tremendous value for dinners. Guests can add a 16-ounce bone-in ribeye for $20 or the popular house-baked pizzata for $7 (usually $15) to the three courses for the $35 deal. Add in the option of a family style pasta course for just $7 a person, and Pallindo’s sets itself up as EPA’s best option for group dining during restaurant week.

Consider this meal. A group of four could order up the three-course prix fix, split a ribeye, a pizzata and the family style pasta for under $50 a person. Grab some friends, and book a table immediately.

Hidden gem

Quietly operating at a different frequency than many of the higher brow spots on the avenue, Noir chef Marco DeCotiis brings a blend of crowd pleasing Italian together with plates that touch on a few other food genres. His menu earns points for sticking to rule number one (offering every day menu items) while also packing a ton of food into a $25 three-course menu.

Risotto rice balls, his standout dish, are available for course number two and are not to be missed. Bookend that with a Caesar salad to start before finishing with the classic penna a la vodka. Chicken pot pie, eggplant lasagna and the Montreal burger can be ordered as well. Check out this spot, 1909 E. Passyunk Ave., if you really want to loosen the belt as opposed to expand the pallet, or if you’re bringing a picky friend along.

Afternoon delights

Allowing Saturday brunch and lunch spots into the mix is a welcome bonus for diners. Enter Dante Expresso Bar, 1615 E. Passyunk Ave., and P’unk Burger, 1823 E. Passyunk Ave., both of which bring menus that shape up as Saturday afternoon hangover cures, or mid-week comfort lunches amidst a rough day at the office.

P’unk Burger, which opens tomorrow, is the latest concept from the team behind SliCE. It promises a fresh, made-to-order burger encompassing the creative and the traditional. Grab fries, a burger and a shake for $15. Specifically, the sweet potato fries, 4th Streeter (corned beef, coleslaw and Russian dressing) and a chocolate milkshake looks like a winning combo.

Dante opened last year and carved its own niche by focusing on modern comfort food dishes with a twist that are fast becoming Philly brunch staples. Its restaurant week menu doubles down on the comfort — offering disco fries covered in sausage gravy and aged cheddar cheese as the appetizer to either a breakfast BLT, chicken and waffles or a southern fried chicken sandwich. A La Colombe coffee is included in the prix fix as well, giving patrons zero reason to stay in bed that Saturday morning. 

For more information, visit eastpassyunkrestaurantweek.com.

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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